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  1. #11
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    I'll have to take a look at what they have. I'm currently using slic3r with some Muve3d laser settings for my config file to generate g-code (what the printer uses to move the laser point/etc). I don't know if it'll do reliable prints with the FSL. I'm mainly worried I will burn through vats faster than I can keep up while debugging.

    I stopped using my printer because my workspace was in my garage, which is heated, but would cost a fortune to heat to 70 degrees so it stays around 40-45 in the winter and my prints went from ok to dead over night when the temps dropped in 2014.

  2. #12
    From my reading, temperatures are pretty important and my house in the summer runs 80-84 deg F, as we are penny pinchers for running the A/C in the Florida heat. Now that the house is just about perfect temp, in the mid 70's for the winter, my wife has a remodel project running that means no working room. No room in the garage, no room in the spare bedrooms, and the living room was a hoarder's hide-out already. For all the bucks spent on the remodel, I could have had a beautiful huge workshop. It's going to take my lifetime to save enough to build one and by then I'll be so close to keeling over, it won't be worth it.

    I'm not sure what you mean when you say you'll have to take a look at what they have?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred_dot_u View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean when you say you'll have to take a look at what they have?
    It was in reference to your comment about some people having trouble with their prints; I was going to look into what issues they were having.

  4. #14
    From what I can recall, plate flatness is one aspect. When a printer can produce 0.025 mm resolution, a divot in the plate or a minor (to a filament printer) warp will cause print failure. Bed leveling is another concern.As already noted, temperature control is important too. I think one user had a problem related to the bed zero location being too far down, compressing the silicone or the supervat so much that all the resin was squeezed out in some locations. From what I've read, none of these failures can be attributed to software.

  5. #15
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    Ahhh, my code might take into account the last ones. I'll have a calibration method where you can indicate where the bed is relative to their "limit sensor". I was also thinking of creating a way to tell when the plate is at or near the bed, but I'm not sure how well this would work out as it would mean attaching a button at the edges of the bed that would act as another limit sensor. The FSL3D cape would support me adding two of these buttons I think, if not I might be able to hijack some other unused pin.

  6. #16
    When I first read about the troubles with bed leveling, I figured some inexpensive pressure sensors and an arduino would be an easy accessory. I found something "way back then" that would take well to clip on the edge of the plate and be compressed between the bed and plate and display either arbitrary values or difference between sensors. These things were tiny and now have become lost. If/when I get mine up and running, I'll probably pursue that option. It would be easier than sticking calibrated spacers at each corner and using objective feel by sliding a slip of paper between the plate and spacers. I think someone else suggested dial indicators and that might be easier too. Horrible Freight sells fifteen dollar indicators. Four of them and some 3d printed stands to hold them vertical might do the trick, although it would be important to calibrate the indicator bases to ensure they were all alike. I have a mini-mill and may build aluminum indicator stands for more consistent measurements, but that's for later.

    What happens if one tries to use a non-FSL resin in the vat? It's not like there's a registration number embedded in the liquid or that one has to enter such information into the panel.

  7. #17
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    Depends on the resin, it'll either over harden or not harden enough. The Pegasus will try to harden the resin with the amount of energy required for FSLs resin; other resins may or may not have success, and with RetinaCreate there is no control over those types of settings.

  8. #18
    That alone is makes all your work worthwhile. Of course some experimenting would be required once you can change the numbers, but not being able to do so without shelling out big bucks is a miserable aspect of their licensing. I'd like to hear from someone who has paid for that ability to learn how well the method provided worked for him

  9. #19
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    Jan 2016
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    Hopefully I'll be successful. I have all the basic code in my software, I need to add some calibration hooks so I can control exposure, Z lift rates/amounts, how many steps for how much distance, and the mapping for the X/Y so things print the right size. I have some MakerJuice G+ that should arrive next week.

  10. #20
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    Jan 2016
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    I enabled a file based calibration file. I'm going to need to study a variety of different slicing problems (I've been using slic3r so far), but I'm being told Creation Workshop might be better for laser printers. I also need to determine speeds to lift off the VAT and how far to go before going back down. My MakerJuice will arrive sometime next week and I'll be able to start printing then..assuming I decide my calibration parameters are close enough to working. I'll start with a 20mm cube and likely print the first layer a few times before I'm happy with it.

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