Parametric Design of Plastic Y-Axis Backplate for 8", 10" or 12" i3v

[PyramidDave]

I have just been replacing wooden parts with plastic parts where I can. it actually cuts down on more vibration. I noticed a big difference in the noise & vibration when I changed the front Y-axis end plate. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:899247
When I changed this back plate, I noticed the sound was a little more muted with movement of the Y-axis.

[PyramidDave]

I finally got all the files together for this & uploaded them to thingiverse. Here is the link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1328811

[usarmyaircav]

I will give these a try. I have the 10" I3V. What are you using for your bed surface? What temps? I am using a sheet of PEI on my glass bed, and am struggling with my roll of PETG temps, the first print I did at a temp too high similar to ABS and I had to use pliers, a putty knife and the bed at heat to get it off LOL

[PyramidDave]

I am using BuildTak on top of a Mirror. I use 230c for PETG & bed temp from 40 to 60. For PLA I am using 210c. I sometimes struggle with getting the part off the buildtak, especially really flat parts. The best tool I have used for getting the part off of the buildTak is a utility knife blade by itself. I am very careful not to cut myself and push with both thumbs the blade under one corner of the part to get it started. Once I am able to get it just a little under the part, I use a putty knife to slide under it. I add round disc ears to the slic3r on the corners for long parts to make sure it stays put. I was adding these ears to the original designs, but I was loosing the perimeter around the corners when I cut the ears away. I use a feeler gauge of .2mm to get the gap between the hotend & the bed. The 1st part I did that really stuck to the bed, I was not sure I was going to be able to get it off.

[usarmyaircav]

I think I have read that buildtak is very similar for adhesion to PEI. I will try your settings. I think my last print was at 235c and 80c for the bed. I also use a utility knife razor blade on a lot of prints to get it started.

[gdschwer]

Fairly new to all of this.

Would this be ok to print in ABS?

Have a 12" version I would like to eliminate some of the wood on....

[PyramidDave]

There was a guy that printed the front axis for the 8" in ABS & had some problems with it cracking. Take a look at halber_mensch comments from Feb 4 & more recent here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:899247/#comments It is also my understanding that ABS will shrink a little, so I am not sure how well the holes line up with ABS on the 12" version. Someone more familiar with ABS maybe able to comment better on that. I would highly recommend trying PETG as it seems to be the best compromise between PLA & ABS. At $25 to $26 a kg, the price is pretty good. You can buy it on amazon, makerfarm or intservo. Here is a good description & links to the specs on it. http://www.intservo.com/products/esu...iant=963058195 I have over 1500 hours of printing on most of the parts I have replaced on my printer with PETG.

[gdschwer]

Thanks, just ordered some PETG, once I figure out what temps to print it at, I'll be trying out several of your prints for a 12"