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Thread: Itty Bitty Double FLEX V2
12-30-2015, 02:50 PM #1
Itty Bitty Double FLEX V2
I just released Version 2 of the Itty Bitty Double FLEX extruder.
This version has a bunch of changes to improve function and ease of use and incorporates several user suggestions:
- Better flexible filament control - A couple of people have reported trouble with flexible filament coming out of the channel and jamming under the hobbed bolt. This version has a much more tightly-constrained filament path, both above and below the bolt to keep the filament in place. It also supports using 1.75mm E3Dv6 hot ends with a PTFE liner, all the way up to the bolt.
- Improved printability - I redesigned many of the parts to make them easier to print. The forks on the idlers were difficult for many printers to reproduce; they're gone now, replaced by a filament feed hole. The square inside corners have been redesigned with an overshoot area in each corner to make the corners come out square and clean on even poorly-calibrated printers. Now the parts fit together easily without cleanup. The hot end cooling shrouds have been redesigned with support material that holds securely to the print bed, pops off easily when cool and peels off the part cleanly. The filament channels have been adjusted for a better fit, with and without a liner. The fingers on the part cooling fan shroud have also been adjusted so they fit cleanly without sanding or trimming.
- Hexagon AO support - A new fan shroud is provided for the shorter Hexagon AO high-heat-capacity hot ends.
- Leveling X Carriage plate -An X carriage plate with an extra eccentric cam hole makes leveling the hot end nozzles easy and repeatable.
- Broader Z probe switch support - The Z probe has been redesigned with more holes to accommodate snap switches with and without arms and wheels, while still keeping the contact point directly under the servo pivot.
- Low-profile shelf brackets - The shelf brackets now recess into the back plate, leaving a smooth side to register underslung X limit switches. This allows enough X travel on the 12" printers for the left nozzle to reach the entire bed area for single-material prints.
This new version retains all of the features from its predecessors:
- Supports E3Dv6 and Hexagon hot ends
- Designed for Hexagon or E3Dv6 hot ends on 27mm centers
- Short, straight filament path to accommodate flexible materials
- Uses the same hardware kit as all Itty Bitty Double Extruders
- NEMA 14 motors
- Silent GT2 belt drives with printed pulleys
- Integrated servo Z probe
- Cam-lock idler bearing pins
- Uses Clough42 custom hobbed bolts or standard MakerFarm bolts
- Lighter than a stock single Accessible Extruder
- Integrated hot end cooling
- Mounting hardware for Prusa i3v printers
The parts are free to download:
- From my web site: http://clough42.com/go/itty-bitty-double-flex-v2/
- From Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1234779
Detailed assembly instructions are here: http://clough42.com/go/ibde-assembly/
If you don't want to track down all of the hardware to build one yourself, complete hardware kits, hobbed bolts, motors, servos and even the printed parts are available.
Last edited by clough42; 12-30-2015 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Fixed images
12-30-2015, 03:15 PM #2
Here's my test extruder. I've been using it for a few months now for production printing.
I have had a few people ask if it was possible to print everything on a single plate. Yes, it is. Here's a print in progress on my 12" MakerFarm.
And the completed parts:
12-30-2015, 05:54 PM #3
Fantastic and good timing as I was just getting ready to print the Flex.
12-31-2015, 12:09 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
sorry if this is mentioned somewhere but what parts are actually different from the original double flex? I am in the process of assembling the double flex and don't want to reprint any unnecessary parts.
12-31-2015, 02:15 PM #5
The idler blocks are different, with the forks removed, but the old extruder blocks with the forks on them will still fit and work fine if you already have them.
You will want the new Z probe with the extra holes if you're using a snap switch with an arm on it. The extra holes allow you to position the tip of the switch under the servo pivot, to reduce error sensitivity.
I think everything else will work fine, if you already have them printed and fitted. The new parts will print more easily and cleanly and will fit in most cases without any cleanup. The V1 parts needed a bit of trimming and sanding to fit together.
01-01-2016, 11:25 AM #6
Is it possible to make a 3mm filament block with 20mm spacing and NEMA 17 steppers.
01-01-2016, 03:49 PM #7
01-01-2016, 09:03 PM #8
The original Itty Bitty Double Extruder does have the hot ends on 20mm centers, but the filament channels are longer and curved, to make room for the bolts. It's designed for NEMA14 motors, but RobH2 posted a derivative for NEMA17 motors here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:581839
I've never tried it, but I think a few other people have.
Oh...ha! Now that I read through the comments, he mentioned that you provided feedback at the time (December '14).
01-01-2016, 09:06 PM #9
02-13-2016, 10:50 PM #10
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Durham, NC
Quickly: Servo doesn't rotate with M280 P0 S100... Thermisters in JHead show 989C.
I was assembling an Itty Bitty Flex V2 and have finally gotten to the electronics/firmware.
I am not "really" learned in RAMPS 1.3/.4, Makerfarm, HICtop, etc.
My printer is HICtop Prusa i3dp08.
I believe it uses a MKS 1.3 base board which has 5 servo controller plugs, 3 thermister spots, 6 end stop spots, A11, D11, A12, D12
and an unknown connector. (And a display)
The clough42.com website "kinda" skips by saying how to connect the extruders to the boards and goes straight to firmware.
HICtop didn't supply firmware. But the firmware I got from someone that bought a HICtop and was given the firmware
shows the board as "33" not "34"... (33 doesn't handle multiple extruders and fails an arduino build.)
So I set to board as 34. The servo doesn't move. It is connected to 3 pins labeled "D11." I am going to check soldering/wiring/shorts. I believed they were done well. I was very careful.
Are there any customers that have used a MKS 1.3 board?
I went through the "unknown" configuration for HICtop and compared it line by line. The X axis homed in the wrong
direction. Which did NOT match their configuration.h, nor your configuration.h. Hmmmm.