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  1. #1

    Exclamation Tall print fails near the very top (warping)

    I just got my first 3D printer. Monoprice Dual Extruder. It appears to be a clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, as that is what Replicator G recognizes it as.

    I have printed several smaller items almost perfectly. However I am trying to print the handle to a Lightsaber (http://imgur.com/a/Izo4s) (Files Here). Printing with PLA at 230° platform at 110°.

    When printing the handle, I get beyond the knurling and into end/top that flairs out and up before tapering back in.
    Capture.PNG
    at JUST the point that it is at it's widest point (circled in red) the lip/edge begins to curl and warp. At the narrower part the extruding head keeps pushing it down as it ads layers. Once it is JUST at its widest it is wide enough that the second extruder can touch the part curling up. It nudges it so that the active extruder catches an edge and the object sticks to the hot metal and it gets dragged around and the print is ruined. (at 98%!!!! )

    I assume the thin tapering edge is warping because it is cooling unevenly.

    How can this be avoided?

    I have taped a sheet of paper over the front of the printer to trap the hot air inside better. Should I do something similar over the top of the machine?

    Any help appreciated!

    LT.Son

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training ServiceXp's Avatar
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    I'm no expert, but those temps seem high for PLA..

  3. #3
    Ok... point by point

    Quote Originally Posted by LT.Son View Post
    ... Replicator G recognizes it as...
    Do not use RepG. This is very old software that has not seen development in years (2008 I believe). You will only use it to fine your printers acceleration settings and the like. Use Makerware 2.4 (it is free) or you can buy Simplify 3D. Both will give you infinitely better results. Note: with Makerware you will need to set up a custom profile.

    Quote Originally Posted by LT.Son View Post
    Printing with PLA at 230° platform at 110°.
    Bonkers temps for PLA. Extruder should at about 200 degrees and the bed no hotter than 60 degrees. The glass temp of PLA is 65 degrees so anything above that and print be too soft and deform.

    Quote Originally Posted by LT.Son View Post
    I have taped a sheet of paper over the front of the printer to trap the hot air inside better. Should I do something similar over the top of the machine?
    Worst thing you can do. PLA needs very active cooling due to its low glass point. Open her up (front and top) and point a desk fan into the chamber.

    That's very ambitious print for a first-timer. Start with something simple. Oh yes, you will need to calibrate your extruder. Please refer to the sailfish manual for an explanation on how to do this. Pay close attention to chapter 5.1.4.

    Proftweak is good for editing custom profiles.

    A download link for Makerware 2.4 (x86 and x64) can be found here.


  4. #4
    Staff Engineer LambdaFF's Avatar
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    If you are using a dual extruder and the second head (cold, since this is a single color print, right ?) is bumping into it, that means that your heads are not level with the bed.
    Review your levelling.
    If your printer is heating the second head for a single color print, remove the heating and you'll see the light : a cold head is significantly smaller than a hot one.

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