Kossel XL. Proper configuration and tuning?

[Fantastic Brass Ninja]

Howdy all,

I recently assembled a DIY Kossel XL kit from Makergeeks. I configured the Arduino Mega 2560 acording to this guide....... http://solidutopia.com/marlin-firmwa...r-guide-basic/

As of this passed friday I can get my printer to move using Repetier Host on the XYZ axis in only one direction (up), Z rising all the way no matter the distance selected. Endstops dont seem to engage, unless the carriage reaching the endstop and skipping acouple belt teeth is "working properly". The hotend will reach operating temp and will allow me to test the extruder, but the hot bed does not engage. Aside from those issues, I'm not sure what else isn't as it should be.

So, if someone has a guide or some guidance to offer for tuning and proper configuration, that would be Fantastic! I'm also interested in anyone else who's come across/dealt with this model and how the over all experience was. I see the Kossel XL has topped acouple charts and afew videos of them are out there, but those examples differ from mine slightly. One difference on mine is that the auto level is apart of the effector's hotend mount in that it pivots. Good, bad?

Anyway, I might as well toss some picture up because........Well, everyone likes pics! (excuse the naked nature of this room, its going through renovations at the moment)






Update: 22/11/15

After sending an M119 command ( as per Applekeith's recommendations), was able to test the end stops. This was the result.......

x_min: TRIGGERED

x_max: TRIGGERED

y_min: TRIGGERED

y_max: TRIGGERED

z_min: open

z_max: TRIGGERED

So then I assume the issue may be in the configuration I did?

Thanks.

Ti

[LuckyImperial]

Okay...here we go...

Get off Marlin ASAP. Switch to Repetier firmware and get the latest version of Repetier host (1.6). You'll thank me in about a month or two. Also, it doesn't make a lot of sense to use Repetier Host with Marlin.

http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/

Configuration isn't as complicated as people think.

1. Set your printer type to delta.
2. You get your dimension values (z_length, diagonal rod length and horizontal radius when centered) from your current Marlin configuration.h file or from eeprom.
3. Floor safety margin is fine default at 15mm.
4. Max horizontal radius is usually more like 75-100mm. I'm sure you can figure that out.
5. Column angles are correct at default 210, 330 and 90. Don't mess with Radius error or Diagnol rod error.
6. Enable Z-Correction. Don't extrapolate corners. Correction Radius is slightly less than max radius.
7. XY Jerk is better at 10 then the default 20.
8. X, Y and Z axis stepper motor use identical settings. 80mm resolution, 200mm max travel, 40mm homing speed, 1000mm/s2 for acceleration. Note that Z is the only one that needs changing. Change invert direction if the move in the wrong direction.
9. Endstops have Max enabled only (hopefully the reason for this is obvious, you don't have min endstops). All min endstops and pins need to be disabled. You'll use z_min for your z probe later in configuration. A z min endstop is not a z probe.
10. Don't mess with jam detection.
11. In "Tools" you need to enable Heated Bed Support and configure your extruder. Extruder configuration consist of entering the correct Resolution (e_steps per mm in Marlin eeprom or configuration.h) and the correct acceleration, which is more like 1000 rather than the default 5000.
12. In "Features" you need to enable Z-Probing and Watchdog.
13. Enable Pullup Resistor for probe pin. Enable Probe Triggers on High.
14. Z_Probe pin should be set to Z Min Endstop.
15. Probe height is whatever the offset is between your probe and your nozzle. Change accordingly.
16. Probe speed is slow at 2mm/s. Up to 5mm/s.
17. X, Y offsets are hopefully self explanitory. The XY offset of the probe with respect to the nozzle. Change accordingly.
18. Enter in realistic probing positions that form a triangle on your circular bed. I use X0Y-60 (back), X-30Y45 (left) and X30Y45(right).
19. Dont touch anything else in "Features."
20. Display controller is Smartcontroller from RepRapDiscount.
21. Start Screen delay is 2000ms.
22. Printer Name: Really, whatever you want. Same with Printer company. Displays on LCD on power up.

That's it. That configuration will get you really close to a working Repetier Firmware configuration that's far more up-to date than that Marlin stuff.

[Fantastic Brass Ninja]

Lucky Imp, that's bloody fantastic! I thank you very muchly for writing that all out!

Now, I'm going to have to break your heart here and still ask some questions to clarify acouple things.

#9. When setting the X,Y,Z Max endstops, there isn't a simple "enabled" option, but rather 5. Not installed, Switch on GND: Normally open, Switch on GND: Normally closed, Electronic: Normally Open, Electronic: Normally closed. Which of these do I set?

#11. For the Extruder configuration, are you saying I'll need to take the required values from the "Configuration.h" file supplied by Marlin? I ask because I've changed the values according to the guide in my first post. I should be fine with used those changed values?

#15 Being that the probe is a pivot kind, there is a short amount of travel allowed by design. It can also be adjusted for travel via screw to decrease it even farther. The default value in Probe height was 40 mm, and that seemed abit excessive to me. My nozzle only moves apox' 1mm up total, at least thats what I have the screw set too. I could back it off about another 5mm, but that to seems like an excessive amount of movement. Thoughts?

#17. I don't understand.................at all.

#18. There are two numerical value fields in Probe Position 1,2,3. I do not understand how to set these bases on your example. If it helps, I've set my working area to 230mm.

I really do appreciate your help here and if we were closer to each other, I'd buy you lunch! I apologize if these instructions are as straight forward as you could make them, but I'm just having alittle trouble understanding some of it. What does that say about me then, eh?

All other instructions have been followed!

Thanks.

Ti

[LuckyImperial]

#9. You likely have Switch on ground, Normally closed endstops. You can use an ohm meter to find out if they're NC or NO.

#11. You can use the values that you found. Most people recommend extruding 100mm of filament, measuring it, and then changing resolution until it actually measures 100mm when extruded.

#15. Change the value from 40mm to 1mm. I wouldn't mess with the set screw. Just try to find the exact distance with trial and error in the firmware. You can mess with it easily once the firmware is uploaded too.

#17. Your nozzle is "offset" some distance from the probe in the x,y plane (as well as z too, but that's what your changing in #15). They are separated by some distance in the xy plane. Where the plastic extrudes is not exactly where the probe is located, so you correct it with the xy offset value.

#18. Well, you need to convert an equilateral triangle's points to Cartesian (x,y) coordinates. Kinda like this https://cobbk12.blackboard.com/bbcsw...te_image42.png, but you know, centered. This is trig coming back to bite you. The good news is that the first point is a gimme, the back post point, which is normally X0Y70. Your second point (which we'll say is the front left) requires math. 70*sin30=61. 70*cos30=35. Viola. Math, points, magic. Your second point is.........X-35Y-61. Your third point is (the front right post) X-35Y61. I hope that makes sense. The three points form the triangle that the software uses to autolevel.

This is easy compared to some of the delta problems I've faced on a forum. Word from the wise though. Don't get lost down the autoprobing, autoleveling, autocalibration rabbit hole. It's expensive down there. Learn how to manual calibrate and fully understand what "horizontal radius when centered" (aka smooth rod offset) does (it effects dishing) and what "diagonal rod length" does (changes dimensional accuracy of print).

[Fantastic Brass Ninja]

OOoh, I see. I think I was misreading #18 at first, but now I understand and have entered those fields. I thank you!

As for #17, I'm still unsure how the offset distance should be measured. The way I'm understanding this is where the probe thinks it is is not where the probe should be. Are you saying that when the probe pivots and brings the nozzle forward, that is the offset? If that is the case, with the current setting on the screw, the forward movement is apox' 2mm. Am I way off here?

Thanks.

Ti

[LuckyImperial]

Lets assume your probe is pivoted down. We'll say it's Engaged.

DSC02438-1.jpg

[Fantastic Brass Ninja]

Ah, see. I think this is where the confusion is coming from. My printer uses the nozzle as the probe. Here's another pic......



As you can see, there are on other appendages off of the effector. In the top right, you can see the microswtich with the adjusting screw up against it. When the nozzle touches down onto the bed, it pushes up on the switch.

So if that is the case where there is no separate probe to be offset from the nozzle, then there shouldn't be a need to set an offset? Or at lease, keep the setting at 0?

[LuckyImperial]

Well then yeah, offset is 0,0

[Fantastic Brass Ninja]

Fantastic! Well, its all been uploaded to the printer.

So now what? After trying some simple moments in Repetier host, I get a message after a short time without movement saying "communication timeout - reset send buffer block". So surly there's something else missing now, right?

BTW, hope you enjoyed your Thanksgiving.

[LuckyImperial]

USB cable, hub, baud rate? There may even be a connection timeout setting in the configuration tool. I'm not familiar with that issue though.

Do you use SD card printing?

Make sure your Repetier Host is latest (v1.6).