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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by NewMatter View Post
    We have not tested many of the available filament on the market since we've been busy optimizing our own brand of filament. The max recommended temperature that the MOD-t hot end should run at is 220C. The hot end nozzle is made of wear resistant stainless steel so it should resist wear much better than brass nozzles but we can't predict how they will behave with non-New Matter filament. We can only guarantee the best prints with New Matter filament.
    Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures

  2. #12
    NewMatter Representative
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsus View Post
    Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures
    Our filament would be considered pure PLA in that there is not any other plastics mixed in and for any post processing it could be considered pure PLA.

    However there are additives that are used to get the different colors and to make it easier to manufacture as filament. The Midnight Black and the Polar White in particular have fairly high ‘filler’ to get the more opaque color. The Matural color has the least additives.

    We can't wait to see how you post process yours!

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by hsus View Post
    Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures
    As someone who just learned acetone baths don't work with PLA, I too am looking at some post-print treatments to get things a bit smoother.

  4. #14
    Staff Engineer
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    Dec 2013
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    Ethyl Acetate smooths PLA in almost exactly the same way that acetone smooths ABS.

    Harder to find and a little more expensive, but significantly less toxic also.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor Heckle View Post
    As someone who just learned acetone baths don't work with PLA, I too am looking at some post-print treatments to get things a bit smoother.
    It does however work with colorfabb's PLA with PHA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEnz8CWxyjc
    Last edited by hsus; 10-15-2015 at 05:20 PM.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feign View Post
    Ethyl Acetate smooths PLA in almost exactly the same way that acetone smooths ABS.

    Harder to find and a little more expensive, but significantly less toxic also.
    Overexposure to ethyl acetate may cause irritation of the eyes, nose, & throat. Severe overexposure may cause weakness, drowsiness, & unconsciousness.
    You still need to take sensible precautions :-)

  7. #17
    Staff Engineer
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    Well, there is a pretty long distance between "less toxic" and "non toxic".

  8. #18
    Has anyone tried LayBrick? Seems to be the most beautiful filament for ornamental objects, read up on it here http://www.extrudable.me/2013/08/13/...with-laybrick/ and now I'm curious if this (or any other stone/cla/brick etc) is printable with the mod-t?

  9. #19
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    they should all print as they're all pla based so don;'t have high extrusion temps.

    One thing to bear in mind. Filaments like copperfill and anything that's conductive or states it has carbon fibre will wear the nozzle.

    If you want something with a stone like finish. Then the best thing I've used is bronzefill. Unsanded, polished etc it looks and feels like rough stone/ceramic.

    I printed a rather nice ganeesh that looks like it was carved from a piece of rock.

    It's probably abetter use for bronzefill than all the post processing to make it look bronzy.

    If you want abronze finish get some of the reprapper tech bronze filament. Doesn't need post processing.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    they should all print as they're all pla based so don;'t have high extrusion temps.

    One thing to bear in mind. Filaments like copperfill and anything that's conductive or states it has carbon fibre will wear the nozzle.

    If you want something with a stone like finish. Then the best thing I've used is bronzefill. Unsanded, polished etc it looks and feels like rough stone/ceramic.

    I printed a rather nice ganeesh that looks like it was carved from a piece of rock.

    It's probably abetter use for bronzefill than all the post processing to make it look bronzy.

    If you want abronze finish get some of the reprapper tech bronze filament. Doesn't need post processing.
    Thanks! I'll look into it next payday, lol. I saw from another first impressions thread that the printing nozzle for the MOD-t is stainless steel, as opposed to others which look to be brass or some other material. I'd like to avoid having to replace it, despite how simple it looks to swap out, but do you think from your experience that a steel nozzle would be more resilient to wear?

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