FlashForge Creator prints not sticking even with glue

[EagleSeven]

The creator pro comes with the enclosures, and lots of people are using them without any problems. With the enclosure and the bed set to 110, it only gets up to about 40c which shouldn't hurt the motors.

I print abs on glass, I use abs juice applied before each print. The prints stick almost too well, I have to put the glass plate in the freezer before I even try to remove them.

But have you measured temp of the Motors while printing??
I have and they get way too hot without a fan blowing directly on them.

I certainly would Not want my Favorite motors hanging about in that Hostile Environment
of an enclosure !

Aqua-net is the Best !!!
Just the Correct amount of 'Holding Power' !

[djprinter]

But have you measured temp of the Motors while printing??
I have and they get way too hot without a fan blowing directly on them.

I certainly would Not want my Favorite motors hanging about in that Hostile Environment
of an enclosure !

Aqua-net is the Best !!!
Just the Correct amount of 'Holding Power' !

You stated before that you print with PLA so obviously you don't need a heated chamber, or a very hot bed for that matter.

If you're printing large abs parts without an enclosure your'e going to get splitting and warping no matter how good your bed-adhesion is.

The motors tolerate 40-50c temps just find, if they didn't mine would have failed long ago.

[curious aardvark]

Believed what stuff? That abs dissolves in acetone? that abs is more flexible? that abs melts at a higher temperature?

nope. That pla is weaker, brittle, shatters easily and is no good for outside usage. All of that is incorrect and based on old information based on old pla formulas.
And depending on the pla you use: 'that abs is more flexible? that abs melts at a higher temperature?'
Those are NOT facts.
The material chenistry world has moved on a very long way since the early days of basic abs and basic pla.

Hell they even make minimal shrink abs these days :-)

Do you homework before stating 'facts' :-)

[EagleSeven]

You stated before that you print with PLA so obviously you don't need a heated chamber, or a very hot bed for that matter.

If you're printing large abs parts without an enclosure your'e going to get splitting and warping no matter how good your bed-adhesion is.

The motors tolerate 40-50c temps just find, if they didn't mine would have failed long ago.

Yes, I now only use PLA and HIPS, since not having any luck with ABS.
I would like to be able to use ABS also but I'm certainly not going to Cook the printer parts to do it.


The overall chamber Temp is Not the same as Motors Temp.
If I remember correctly the actual temp of both motors was about 75 C average, which is too hot.
(measured with calibrated digital thermometer)
Before the fan was added.
(Y motor was about 10C hotter than X motor, since it gets less air flow in corner.
That was without an enclosure, so I'm sure they would get much hotter with enclosure.

[ssayer]

Why use ABS? It stinks, it warps, it's generally more of a pain. PETG is my filament of choice because it has all the good of ABS and all the good of PLA rolled into one...

[EagleSeven]

The main problem with PETG , as I understand it, is the extremely High melting temp.
I don't think most printers will Go that high and Stay there.
I Know Mine don't like going above about 220 C

[ssayer]

Most printers? Seriously? Also, if you have a Creator Pro (or one of it's clones like I do), PETG is no problem at all. If you're having a problem with heating, it's probably due to the Power Supply being marginal. You can get a more powerful Power Supply for around 25 bucks US...

[EagleSeven]

Most printers? Seriously?

Yes, it's not Only mine, I've read several online comments about printers not being able to get above 230C maximum recommended temp.
I think it's the Heater in extruder-blocks that is the limiting factor, but not sure about that ?
Heaters can self-destruct if set at too high a temp, also.

Note: My Next 'BIG STUFF' printer will be able to Heat 'um to Sun-Surface Temps

[warkmal]

Yes, it's not Only mine, I've read several online comments about printers not being able to get above 230C maximum recommended temp.
I think it's the Heater in extruder-blocks that is the limiting factor, but not sure about that ?
Heaters can self-destruct if set at too high a temp, also.

Note: My Next 'BIG STUFF' printer will be able to Heat 'um to Sun-Surface Temps

Our printers have a little PTFE tube to guide the filament into the nozzle. It's there to help with the thermal construction of the hotend so that you get very hot at the nozzle, but you don't want that heat to creep too far up the filament and melt farther up in the extruder because then you get a jam. There are all metal designs out there though.

That PTFE (teflon is a brand of ptfe) doesn't like to get too hot. It chars and releases fumes that aren't good for you and also comes apart and stops being as effective at its job. That PTFE tube puts an upper bound on hotend temps. The longer you're at higher temperature the more risk of charring you get. So you can get away with it for a while, but not forever. If you really want to run hotter, you might want to upgrade to an all metal hotend.

That said, some brands of PETG claim that it can extrude at 230 which is what a lot of people run ABS at. Hard to say without trying though because there are a bunch of local variables involved so you have to experiment with your own printer.

[jfkansas]

I've ran a PTFE lined hot end up to 280C for 3 hours+ and it worked fine. It isn't recommended for sure though. The temps that PTFE outgas is around 600F and even then it is a very small amount due to the size of the tubing. The only reason I did it was to try to get some nylon/abs layers to adhere. It was just a test.