FlashForge Creator prints not sticking even with glue

[choconut74]

Hi,

I recently purchased a flashforge creator and replaced the kapton tape with the pre-cut blue painter's tape that came with it. As ABS prints would not stick here, I added a 0.25 inch glass build plate on top of that. So there's the aluminum HBP, the blue painter's, and then the glass. So I've tried using glue and it just does not work. It is sticky in the beginning, but after waiting for it to heat up, the glue somehow dries and becomes very smooth. When the print starts, the ABS just does not stick, messing up the whole print. I've tried preheating the build plate first, without the glass plate, applying a fresh coat of glue, and then placing the glass on the build plate when it's at the right temperature. This has seemed to work, but I do not want to go through the trouble of doing this every time. I also have heard that a coat of glue can last several prints, but every time after heating, the glue dries and becomes too smooth for any ABS adhesion. If anyone could give me advice, that would be much appreciated. By the way, the settings I use are a 220 degree celsius temperature extruder and a 115 degree celsius build plate temperature. The glue I use is the elmer's extra strength glue stick that can be found here: http://elmers.com/product/detail/e5010

Thank you so much.

[Sebastian Finke]

Any tape under the glass is a bad idea. You want your glass to lie directly on the aluminium build platform.

Are you heating your platform? You should, if you aren't. Ideal temp for ABS is 90 -95 degrees (start with 95). For PLA use 55 - 65 degrees.

For ABS the best 'glue' to use is slurry i.e a little bit acetone in a jar (about 75ml) with up to 300mm of filament cut up into it. The finer you cut the filament the faster it dissovles. This slurry is then apllied to the glass once the platform has heated to the correct temp. I just brush it on. Alternatively you cover your glass in Kapton tape. The is substantially more difficult than making slurry but works very well, sometimes too well.

[curious aardvark]

also with abs I found I needed a raft.

And make sure when you calibrate, you do so with both the extruder and build plate heated to the print temperature.
Otherwise you'll get a big gap and things won't stick.

Before i stopped using abs I used blue tape and a raft. Yeah it takes longer and waste plastic - but everything I printed worked.

And if one print works - it's still quicker and cheaper than 3 that come off the platform halfway through the print.

[Sebastian Finke]

Raft won't be need if:

- the bed is correctly levelled.
- the contact area isn't too small.

[ffvader]

I ran with glue for a while.
switched to hairspray on straight glass. that works much better than the glue
I have almost no prints curl up. you also may want to tray lowering your HB as you go through the print.
for ABS
abs slurry works best with gradual lowering of the temp bed as you go along.

x2 get the tape off there..
run straight glass on your build plate with aquanet hairspray unscented in the purple can. it last a long time.
looks like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think meijer/walmart has it for 2-3$ for big bottle of it

[curious aardvark]

I did use abs glue on glass - works okay, but having to repaint after every print is a pain.

never got round to trying the hairspray - although I did buy a can from poundworld :-)
As long as it lists pvc (think that's it) as one of the first ingredients - it should work.

It was around that time I switched from a flat glaass plate to a flat aluminium plate and from abs to pla.
And then wondered why I'd ever believed all the stuff about abs versus pla in the first place :-)

[Sebastian Finke]

One thing I forgot to mention: on order to have a successful ABS print your printer must be enclosed. Front and top.

[EagleSeven]

One thing I forgot to mention: on order to have a successful ABS print your printer must be enclosed. Front and top.

??? Don't the X & Y stepper-motors get Too Hot with those Enclosures ?
Mine got Way too hot without an enclosure, during long prints.
I had to install a fan there.

I've read about those motors Failing, caused by overheating,
and since they are too hot to touch, they are too hot to operate long.

[djprinter]

??? Don't the X & Y stepper-motors get Too Hot with those Enclosures ?
Mine got Way too hot without an enclosure, during long prints.
I had to install a fan there.

I've read about those motors Failing, caused by overheating,
and since they are too hot to touch, they are too hot to operate long.

The creator pro comes with the enclosures, and lots of people are using them without any problems. With the enclosure and the bed set to 110, it only gets up to about 40c which shouldn't hurt the motors.

I print abs on glass, I use abs juice applied before each print. The prints stick almost too well, I have to put the glass plate in the freezer before I even try to remove them.

[djprinter]

I did use abs glue on glass - works okay, but having to repaint after every print is a pain.

never got round to trying the hairspray - although I did buy a can from poundworld :-)
As long as it lists pvc (think that's it) as one of the first ingredients - it should work.

It was around that time I switched from a flat glaass plate to a flat aluminium plate and from abs to pla.
And then wondered why I'd ever believed all the stuff about abs versus pla in the first place :-)

Believed what stuff? That abs dissolves in acetone? that abs is more flexible? that abs melts at a higher temperature?

Those aren't "beliefs' they are simple facts. Of course if none of those matter to you, you should be using PLA as it shrinks less and requires less heat to print.