Bonded Heat bed for 12"

[super fly]

I wonder if there would be a way to mount the aluminum so you could still level the bed. Would clipping it to the glass just defeat the purpose? I like the idea of a PID loop so i will be watching this for a report. If the SSR are as inefficient as it sounds a separate power supply may be needed. My voltage already drops from 13v to 10.5 or so when the heated kicks in and the LED lights flicker quite badly. How much amp draw would just the board and motors take. 10amps? 15?

Is it an ATX supply? If so you may need a load resistor on one of the rails; probably 5V. Try it on the 3.3V and 5V and 12V and see where you get the best results.

[tsteever]

Nope, it is a power supply from Amazon. I guessing it is just a very cheap unit. So I could power the Rumba, motors, and extruder from a separate 12V 5amp power supply?

[rhonal89]

Here is a picture of a minion. Never had a problem maybe it was the way it was built. Also have dual extruder. Dual flex. Only problem I always had was when I buy cheap filament. Makerfarm i3v 12inch 6 mm thick glass.

[rhonal89]

Here are some more picture of minion large and minion key chain I made. The quality is great. Also picture of nasa wrench and dual extruder from itty bitty flex all red is ABS red. And yellow is PLA.


http://imgur.com/aa5adM5
http://imgur.com/SJySlbo
http://imgur.com/cRdz91E
http://imgur.com/bJD551l
http://imgur.com/vT49S1G
http://imgur.com/g3olCbM
http://imgur.com/6rQncjr
http://imgur.com/vW8EDxY
http://imgur.com/v9WgBcj

Red

http://imgur.com/a/anEOv
http://imgur.com/BegTf7w
http://imgur.com/At2aE2Z
http://imgur.com/zCkvZo8
http://imgur.com/I9TzoXh
http://imgur.com/8UXT4Ia
http://imgur.com/bv7dQ4b

[Chadd]

I would be happy with that also.. Maybe your 6mm glass is keeping the warpage to a min.

Here is a picture of a minion. Never had a problem maybe it was the way it was built. Also have dual extruder. Dual flex. Only problem I always had was when I buy cheap filament. Makerfarm i3v 12inch 6 mm thick glass.

[rhonal89]

That is a upgrade. Hopefully with everything you are doing it will help with the layer problems. I like to stick with pla if i have a choice. I think is easier to print. I too order and received the aluminium plate from colin and as my bed warps but the glass has helped me alot. That is the reason why i bought it. Other problem I do find is if you look at the big minion eyes you would see like waves I don't mine this but this is something i would like to take care of. I haven't tighten my belts or checked them since January this year. Maybe they are loose a little Maybe that problem lies here. I think Printbus documented this.

Also I like to print this color yellow PLA at 215 bed at 60.
Red ABS 240 bed 110.

More ABS prints
http://imgur.com/BegTf7w
http://imgur.com/At2aE2Z
http://imgur.com/zCkvZo8
http://imgur.com/I9TzoXh
http://imgur.com/8UXT4Ia
http://imgur.com/bv7dQ4b

I would be happy with that also.. Maybe your 6mm glass is keeping the warpage to a min.

[Chadd]

Well I finally got around to measuring my bed warpage with a dial indicator. I wasn't able to get it all the way to the center of the bed to measure it but I am seeing ~.3 mm change in bed height when the heater kicks on. It isn't a gradual change at all and it cycles up and down as the heater turns on and off.

So if I am printing at .2mm layer height the bed is warping more than a full layer each time the heater kicks on and off. My SSR came in today and I am planning on getting it swapped out tonight or tomorrow so I hope that setting up PID will take care of the problem.

[BLKKROW]

So I have printed some test parts with the new aluminum Y bed and found that with the new Y bed and the heat bed on, it has decreased the Z banding quite a bit.

It isn't perfect just yet as there is still some signs of it, so I printed with the heat bed off and found no signs of Z banding issues. My next upgrade was going to be thicker glass. Thank you to rhonal89 for providing your glass thickness!

[rhonal89]

Glass thickness was what helped a lot. If the heat bed warped the glass held. Also it still heats up quite nicely for abs. I had the same problem like everybody here. Before the glass the heatbed would warp so bad. That leveling the bed was render useless. It would bow down in the middle really bad with thin glass. Also that minion was a 8 hour print. Printed 3 back to back as gifts. I showed them to some guest I had over they said is Disney must be expensive. I said no I printed it. They give it a value of 30 dollars if it was painted at a Disney store

So I have printed some test parts with the new aluminum Y bed and found that with the new Y bed and the heat bed on, it has decreased the Z banding quite a bit.

It isn't perfect just yet as there is still some signs of it, so I printed with the heat bed off and found no signs of Z banding issues. My next upgrade was going to be thicker glass. Thank you to rhonal89 for providing your glass thickness!

[voodoo28]

Your Prints are looking Great!

Here are some more picture of minion large and minion key chain I made. The quality is great. Also picture of nasa wrench and dual extruder from itty bitty flex all red is ABS red. And yellow is PLA.


http://imgur.com/aa5adM5
http://imgur.com/SJySlbo
http://imgur.com/cRdz91E
http://imgur.com/bJD551l
http://imgur.com/vT49S1G
http://imgur.com/g3olCbM
http://imgur.com/6rQncjr
http://imgur.com/vW8EDxY
http://imgur.com/v9WgBcj

Red

http://imgur.com/a/anEOv
http://imgur.com/BegTf7w
http://imgur.com/At2aE2Z
http://imgur.com/zCkvZo8
http://imgur.com/I9TzoXh
http://imgur.com/8UXT4Ia
http://imgur.com/bv7dQ4b