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  1. #4031
    Engineer
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    May 2016
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    Annapolis, MD
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    476
    Hi W! Glad to hear it was an easy fix for you. I got some more Raptor PLA filament from MG last week. All bags sealed and filament is working well. I continue to be extremely pleased with the Raptor PLA stuff, although I do wish it were cheaper.

    There was a surprise, MG has changed their filament spool to a thinner one with a different hub hole size as well (57.5mm). Had to make new hub adapters to fit them onto the shaft in my dry box. Because they are thinner, the new spools are also more full to the brim with filament, so it is a little easier to inadvertently goof up a roll inside the dry box by slipping a loop over the side edges of the spool. Again, more of an issue if the spools are on a shaft.

    The more I use my dry box, the more I like your "just set it in the box" approach. (Having every spool in the box on a spit is a pain, reminds me of the engine+trans+differential in my old Corvair.) Did you ever publish the design for your dry box?

  2. #4032
    Super Moderator
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    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    883
    Like those fixes. Now to go stock up on fuses.

    I sent back 6 rolls to MG. Filament diameters where way off. I had 1.67 to 1.78 on some and as much as 1.83 on some. I am doing there monthly box since it is a pretty good deal now at $30 and you get 2 rolls.

    I am becoming a fan of eSun. Had an Amazon shipping problem which got me talking to a guy from eSun and he was really nice so I have tried a bunch of there PLA, PLA+ and PEtG in various colors. So far very pleased with the performance. PLA+ may be a bit like that Raptor stuff but at PLA price.

    They have a really good selection and reasonable shipping but you can get it from Amazon with Prime also. Prices on their site are pretty much the same as Amazon.
    I still have pretty good luck with Hatchbox also.

    About to do a big upgrade on the trusty QIDI from JFKansas. My QIDI X-one has proven to be a trooper and does anything I ask of it. I have been running ABS on it for a while and it does a great job.

    It would be a great machine with a small nozzle for detail work.

    I gave up on the dry box. I have dry boxes now just for storage with plug-in rechargeable desiccant packs and humidity monitors. I change filaments so much it is a better solution. I have anywhere from 32-50 open rolls going so the direct feed became more trouble that a help.
    I never put any files out but if you want any of them just let me know.

  3. #4033
    Engineer
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    May 2016
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    Annapolis, MD
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    !! 32 to 50 open rolls !! Holy cow W, what are you doing there? I've been really pleased with the platform upgrade from JFK, which mod are you getting?

    I've not measured the MG filament diameter here, but I seem not to have any issues with whatever it actually is. I really like the way the MG Raptor PLA prints, and I would love to have an alternative supplier for a similar material. The Raptor stuff is also FDA food and dishwasher safe, and is extremely strong. The eSun PLA+ website does not include any claims of food or dishwasher safe, or high-temp etc., although it does state that PLA+ is "10x tougher" than PLA.

    Of all the stuff I've seen so far, the closest I have found to the Raptor PLA is the Proto Pasta HTPLA v3. I have not tried it, but the written descriptions sound very similar, albeit lacking the food and dishwasher safe certifications. Unfortunately at this point the price and color choices are very poor for the Proto Pasta HTPLA v3 material. Here is a link for some info / pricing etc.
    https://www.amazon.com/Proto-Pasta-T.../dp/B0727M59L6

    Here is some text re. annealing. (There is more on the mfg website.): "Heat treating: PLA and HTPLA as printed, though both adequate performers in an office environment, have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temperatures not much above 50C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temperature stability in a no/minimal load condition to near melting. That's an astonishing 3x+ improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing. In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts and as much a few hours for massive parts, HTPLA v3 parts crystallize in an oven at 110C +/- 10C (200-250F) to become more stiff."

  4. #4034
    Super Moderator
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    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    883
    Yea, PLA+ is just stronger PLA. So it is nice to print and prints great at 215 and a tougher product. I go to PTEG or ABS for higher temp and tough and it is still cost effective.

    I had a discussion on "food safe" with eSun and he said basically anything FDM printed is not food safe. Only true "clear" filament can be considered food safe since there is no coloring. I gathered the whole food safe thing is more that the filament is non-toxic if it comes into contact with food stuff.

    I have been doing a bunch of print jobs. Running 5 printers now! So it's mostly different colors of PLA, ABS and PETG with wood and a few exotics thrown in.
    Last edited by wirlybird; 04-27-2017 at 01:52 PM.

  5. #4035
    I would like to print some abrasive filaments SteelFill and CF PETG. What would you guys recommend - is there a suitable nozzle swap or should I look at an all metal hotend?

    Here are two options I was considering:
    Steel Nozzle:
    https://www.p3-d.com/collections/dur...truder-nozzles

    All Metal Hotend:
    https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle.../dp/B01C3HEQZC

  6. #4036
    Engineer
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    May 2016
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    Annapolis, MD
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    Quote Originally Posted by write2dgray View Post
    I would like to print some abrasive filaments SteelFill and CF PETG. What would you guys recommend - is there a suitable nozzle swap or should I look at an all metal hotend?

    Here are two options I was considering:
    Steel Nozzle:
    https://www.p3-d.com/collections/dur...truder-nozzles

    All Metal Hotend:
    https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle.../dp/B01C3HEQZC
    If you end up taking the hot end approach, you might check out jfkansas site. He makes some kits that might help with that changeover. I think there are some size differences that need to be considered if you are on a QiDi Tech printer. The web site for his store is http://store.wmdproducts.com/

  7. #4037
    Thanks for the tip DaveB. I'm looking at this widget:
    http://store.wmdproducts.com/index.p...&product_id=70

    The advantage of an all metal hotend I understand is the ability to print in excess of 250C without damage to the PTFE lining on the stock set-up. That said, I'm not sure this printer can get above 250C?

    Whereas a replacement hardened steel nozzle simply reduces wear caused by abrasive filaments.

  8. #4038
    Engineer
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    May 2016
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    Annapolis, MD
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    476
    I do not have an all metal hot end on my QiDi printer. I don't know what its top operating temperature might be.

  9. #4039
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Hey there, I replied to your email.

    Quote Originally Posted by write2dgray View Post
    Thanks for the tip DaveB. I'm looking at this widget:
    http://store.wmdproducts.com/index.p...&product_id=70

    The advantage of an all metal hotend I understand is the ability to print in excess of 250C without damage to the PTFE lining on the stock set-up. That said, I'm not sure this printer can get above 250C?

    Whereas a replacement hardened steel nozzle simply reduces wear caused by abrasive filaments.

  10. #4040
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
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    476
    Any QiDi users know how to coerce S3D and QiDi to pause for filament change when printing from an SD?
    Last edited by DaveB; 05-02-2017 at 10:09 PM.

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