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  1. #3961
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    847
    Not a dumb question. Ask yourself what is your "real" budget. The Tech-1 adds a little complexity with the second extruder but gives you that little bit more flexibility and a little more build area. The X-one is less expensive and is a tank. Mine prints PLA models day in and day out. If I need ten items I put them on the SD card and keep printing one after another.
    It can do ABS and is fairly easy to enclose.
    They are both good so I think cost may be one of the main factors in deciding.

  2. #3962
    I've kind of skimmed through the 300+ pages, but I haven't found this, so I'm hoping someone will confirm for me.

    I've got a Qidi Tech 1 on the way. I've heard a lot about getting the Swiss all-metal hotend kit. Which one do I need? I've seen a MK10 and some others, but they don't really specify and I'm not sure what to look for.

  3. #3963
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    902
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    The only problem with getting the MicroSwiss conversions for the QIDI is the thermal tubes don't fit very well in the Cooling bar. The tubes on the Qidi are just a little bigger, so the Microswiss fit very loosey and this affects the effectiveness of the cooling bar. A lot use a mount I make to install the Microswiss hot ends, just know that you can't put your stock ones back in with it though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lynza View Post
    I've kind of skimmed through the 300+ pages, but I haven't found this, so I'm hoping someone will confirm for me.

    I've got a Qidi Tech 1 on the way. I've heard a lot about getting the Swiss all-metal hotend kit. Which one do I need? I've seen a MK10 and some others, but they don't really specify and I'm not sure what to look for.

  4. #3964
    Awesome, thank you! I'll probably hold off for now. I had a previous 3d printer that's got broken and unreplaceable parts, so I have a whole lot of PLA filament left over that I can use. I shouldn't need the all-metal hotend for a while, anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    The only problem with getting the MicroSwiss conversions for the QIDI is the thermal tubes don't fit very well in the Cooling bar. The tubes on the Qidi are just a little bigger, so the Microswiss fit very loosey and this affects the effectiveness of the cooling bar. A lot use a mount I make to install the Microswiss hot ends, just know that you can't put your stock ones back in with it though.

  5. #3965
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    847
    Does anyone know if Sailfish uses relative E distances or not? I am setting up Slic3r.

  6. #3966
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    847
    Still trying to get a start script to work with Slic3r and the QIDI but no luck. I don't know what the problem is. I think it could be the GPX converter is messing it up.
    This really can't be this difficult!

  7. #3967
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    847
    Fighting with Slic3r. Got to the point where the starting script and prime is working but then the first layer is crap. See the pic. That is a layer height of .4 anything less and it is just a blob on the nozzle. It looks to be severely under extruding but I don't know what to check.


    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #3968
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    The only problem with getting the MicroSwiss conversions for the QIDI is the thermal tubes don't fit very well in the Cooling bar. The tubes on the Qidi are just a little bigger, so the Microswiss fit very loosey and this affects the effectiveness of the cooling bar. A lot use a mount I make to install the Microswiss hot ends, just know that you can't put your stock ones back in with it though.
    I noticed that too. I just put a shit load of thermal grease on it. How can I get one of your cooling bars?

  9. #3969
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    91
    Hi guys, I just finished a print successfully and tried to do another but my right extruder (same one that just printed) is making a clicking sound and no filament is coming through. I tried using the "load right" command from the menu and gave it some pressure by pushing down on the filament, but still nothing. Any ideas? I am really hoping to avoid having to take this thing apart.

    Edit 1: I took off the fan and see that there's a blob of filament in the space between the black plastic extruder motor and the metal block that the nozzle is mounted on. This could possibly be where the blockage is but I am not sure how to take it apart to clear it. We are talking about a mm of space.

    Edit 2:I pulled all the filament out and am reloading it now. Hopefully this works.

    Edit 3: Fixed it. Nothing to see here, carry on.
    Last edited by sygyzy; 02-28-2017 at 01:57 AM.

  10. #3970
    Quick question: Does the power supply have a 12v output anywhere and can it handle another ~1amp draw? Working on an air scrubber and I'd like to power the fan from the printer's PS. If not then I suppose I can wire in a small 12v PS...

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