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  1. #3871
    Super Moderator
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    Jun 2016
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    Oklahoma
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    910
    You basically go to a Bowden type setup to get it to work. Google it.

    Go with JF's cooling block setup and get Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends. It's a bolt on.

  2. #3872
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    You basically go to a Bowden type setup to get it to work. Google it.

    Go with JF's cooling block setup and get Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends. It's a bolt on.
    Have you done this and experienced it first hand?

  3. #3873
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    910
    Yes. I use JF's setup with Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends on one of my Flashforge Creator Pro's. Or go with his hot ends also I guess. I already had the hot ends when I got his cooling block and heatsink set up.

    To go to E3D setup you will have a lot of work and have to print parts etc. I looked into it to see and said no way!


    Quote Originally Posted by RetroCreo View Post
    Have you done this and experienced it first hand?

  4. #3874
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    94
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Don't worry about exact. Just get 6x9 size at Mcmaster. 3/16" thick. That is 228 x 152.
    That sounds good. Is the 6x9" size slightly too large or slightly too small for the build plate? And how do you account for this? Just use clips that can adjust for the size difference? Also, why 3/16"? Is that supposed to be a compromise between 1/8" and 1/4"? Now I have to ask Kludge or someone else to make a custom 3/8" Z-axis spacer. I only have 1/8" and 1/4" size.

  5. #3875
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    909
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    It's so close it isn't to be worried about. Yes 3/16" is a nice compromise between 1/4 and 1/8. 1/4 is good but is overkill. I feel 1/8 is a little weak once you start wrestling with a stuck print. Glass is glass, it will break if stressed too much.

    You should be able to use a 1/4" spacer for 3/16". Just unscrew the levelers a little more.

    My platform kit comes with spacer for glass and no glass.

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    That sounds good. Is the 6x9" size slightly too large or slightly too small for the build plate? And how do you account for this? Just use clips that can adjust for the size difference? Also, why 3/16"? Is that supposed to be a compromise between 1/8" and 1/4"? Now I have to ask Kludge or someone else to make a custom 3/8" Z-axis spacer. I only have 1/8" and 1/4" size.

  6. #3876
    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    That sounds good. Is the 6x9" size slightly too large or slightly too small for the build plate? And how do you account for this? Just use clips that can adjust for the size difference? Also, why 3/16"? Is that supposed to be a compromise between 1/8" and 1/4"? Now I have to ask Kludge or someone else to make a custom 3/8" Z-axis spacer. I only have 1/8" and 1/4" size.
    I use 1/8" borosilicate glass. The 1/8" in my opinion is better because it reaches temp faster. With a glass plate, you want to use the preheat function as much as possible and then check your bed temps with an infrared thermometer as the reported temp will be for the aluminum bed's temperature reading and won't accurately reflect what the surface of the plate is. I printed off a spacer that is 1/8" but slightly larger, it doesn't matter too much as you can adjust your bed height, just make sure is isn't smaller before you adjust or you will crash your print head into it. My spacer located on one of the screw tops behind the z-axis threaded rod.

  7. #3877
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    3/16" glass resists warping better also if using clips to hold it down. The time to temp differential isn't significant.

  8. #3878
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    201
    The 1/8 thick glass will chip and crack easier. Not the end of the world but if you are counting on the bottom to be smooth and one chips or cracks.... well.... the 3/16 is more durable and the heat issue is not all that different.

  9. #3879
    Hello friends. Hoping you an help me. I haven't found any other person on the internet with my same problem but you all seem to be able to get your QIDI Tech 1s working just fine. I haven't even been able to do a successful test print.

    The problem is drivers and software. I can't find ANYWHERE online to download a driver for the QIDI Tech 1. The softwares it came with - copies of MakerBot and ReplicatorG - do not install. Every time I run them, I get a "installation did not run" error. And that's it - no other information.

    My computer still can't recognize the QIDI Tech 1 even after I installed MakerBot software from the website. What can I do?

    Thanks,
    G

  10. #3880
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    910
    You would need to get either the last version of ReplicatorG which is really outdated but the driver will work or go get Flashprint. Flashprint should be fine just select Flashforge Creator Pro as the printer. It will however not print to the printer via USB. Also do not let it update the firmware without checking with QIDI first.

    What operating system?
    You may need administrator privileges to install the software depending on the computer.

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