Close



Page 386 of 411 FirstFirst ... 286336376384385386387388396 ... LastLast
Results 3,851 to 3,860 of 4110
  1. #3851
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    Hey guys, been MIA for a while due to a move and having to reinstall Windows. I recently pulled a ABS print of the bed and ripped a hole through my factory blue build surface. The thing is the original one that came on the printer so it's time to replace it. Any recommendations on tried and true third party surfaces? I had a glass plate cut at a local framers but never got around to installing it (I remember the brackets were making me nervous). Is anyone using Buildtak? What about Maghold?

    And finally, was thinking about heating the bed up to 92F before trying to peel it off. Does this sound like a good idea or do you recommend a different temperature? Thank you in advance.

  2. #3852
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    ABS should pop off the surface when it cools after printing. Direct on glass with ABS slurry is the most reliable and repeatable print surface. Slurry has to be applied every time though. Preheat the glass to about 70c before applying slurry. Then start print and heat it to 95c for the print.

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Hey guys, been MIA for a while due to a move and having to reinstall Windows. I recently pulled a ABS print of the bed and ripped a hole through my factory blue build surface. The thing is the original one that came on the printer so it's time to replace it. Any recommendations on tried and true third party surfaces? I had a glass plate cut at a local framers but never got around to installing it (I remember the brackets were making me nervous). Is anyone using Buildtak? What about Maghold?

    And finally, was thinking about heating the bed up to 92F before trying to peel it off. Does this sound like a good idea or do you recommend a different temperature? Thank you in advance.

  3. #3853
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    ABS should pop off the surface when it cools after printing. Direct on glass with ABS slurry is the most reliable and repeatable print surface. Slurry has to be applied every time though. Preheat the glass to about 70c before applying slurry. Then start print and heat it to 95c for the print.
    Great thanks for the reply. While I was waiting, I just winged it and heated up the bed to 92C, peeled the blue surface off and tried fitting my 1/8" plate. It actually took me all day (in excess of 5 hours) because of various issues, one of them being that the framing shop I got the glass from, didn't cut the plate exactly correct so I had it too small on the length (left to right) and too long on the width (front to back). I printed out half a dozen clips and mounts and settled on a combination of adjustable mounts in the rear, static ones in front, and some abs shims (support material).

    I have been trying to avoid putting down any sort of slurry or glue or hairspray and printing ABS directly on a 95C bed. It's been going mostly good. I had about 3 prints peel up and get ruined. If I were to use the ABS slurry, what does the bottom surface look like? And doesn't the piece come up, stuck to a flat pool of ABS?

    Do I need any special settings or surface to print PLA on glass? I just ran out the other day so I won't be able to test for a few days.

    Lastly - besides the 3D printed upgrades like the cable chain, fan covers, z-axis shim, and 8mm rod "supports", are there any noteworthy upgrades to the QIDI Tech 1?

    Have I missed any recalls or new parts that QIDI can send me? I heard their customer service is great and always willing to provide fixes.

    Have there been any firmware upgrades?

    Lastly, what is this I keep reading about - some sort of upgrade kit that a member here has created and is selling? How do I find out more? Thanks for your help.

  4. #3854
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    The bottom is glass smooth with slurry. The extruder fuses the first layer with the slurry.

    For PLA a 50c bed and a layer of glue stick will work. You can also use a mix of sugar and water for PLA.

    I have my platform and z axis upgrade. 3 members here have installed it and have had positive experiences. PM for more info.

  5. #3855
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    198
    I use this on the glass.
    http://www.garnierusa.com/products/s...air-spray.aspx
    It's non-aerosol, cheap and comes right off the glass with warm water and a little dishwasher soap. Most times I just take the glass out of th printer and let the part cool. You will hear some cracking and popping. Eventually it will come loose on it's own. I have several glass plates lying around that I have prepped for use so I can start another print while one is cooling.

  6. #3856
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    96
    Is the hairspray just for ABS on glass or do you use it for PLA as well? Is there any reason you couldn't leave it on there permanently instead of cleaning it off?

    And while I have you, where did you get your glass and what clips do you use? Still trying to come up with a good solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd-67 View Post
    I use this on the glass.
    http://www.garnierusa.com/products/s...air-spray.aspx
    It's non-aerosol, cheap and comes right off the glass with warm water and a little dishwasher soap. Most times I just take the glass out of th printer and let the part cool. You will hear some cracking and popping. Eventually it will come loose on it's own. I have several glass plates lying around that I have prepped for use so I can start another print while one is cooling.

  7. #3857
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Gotta be careful suggesting hair spray in general. Most don't work as well as the good ol AquaNet purple can. Some don't work at all. It is safer to stay with the Aqua net.

    I've never had any luck with AquaNet on glass with bigger parts. Small parts it is ok. And on very long prints like 6-10 hours the failure rate of Aquanet is much higher than Slurry.

    I have found that wiping the glass with Aquanet as a "cleaner" then using slurry on top of that prepped surface gives the maximum hold you will find.

    Be careful with glass plates and the thicknesses. I have several glass plates and some are off by .1mm or so and that is what we adjust the nozzle gap to. So in theory just switching out plates would work, just make sure you pair up glass from the same batches and verify they are the exact same thickness.

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd-67 View Post
    I use this on the glass.
    http://www.garnierusa.com/products/s...air-spray.aspx
    It's non-aerosol, cheap and comes right off the glass with warm water and a little dishwasher soap. Most times I just take the glass out of th printer and let the part cool. You will hear some cracking and popping. Eventually it will come loose on it's own. I have several glass plates lying around that I have prepped for use so I can start another print while one is cooling.

  8. #3858
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    198
    I use a similar design to the ones on thingy verse. Theirs we for a thicker plate. I use 3mm glass.

    I clean it off and reapply to prevent build up. The print will pull the hairspray off when it releases.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #3859
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Gotta be careful suggesting hair spray in general. Most don't work as well as the good ol AquaNet purple can. Some don't work at all. It is safer to stay with the Aqua net.

    I've never had any luck with AquaNet on glass with bigger parts. Small parts it is ok. And on very long prints like 6-10 hours the failure rate of Aquanet is much higher than Slurry.

    I have found that wiping the glass with Aquanet as a "cleaner" then using slurry on top of that prepped surface gives the maximum hold you will find.

    Be careful with glass plates and the thicknesses. I have several glass plates and some are off by .1mm or so and that is what we adjust the nozzle gap to. So in theory just switching out plates would work, just make sure you pair up glass from the same batches and verify they are the exact same thickness.
    payment-system.JPG

    The product that I posted a link to does work very well and it's not flammable and doesn't stink. I printed this in two pieces this weekend. Total build time was 23 hours and some change. No warping or lifting.

    I do agree on the glass thickness from different runs. McMaster has been pretty consistent but I am not sure how big their buys are.

  10. #3860
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    They stopped the 3/16" and 1/4" plates which were the most sensible. From Mcmaster I had some plates several months apart that were different thicknesses in the 3/16". Not much but in 3d printing enough to make a difference.

    Ya you might have lucked out in the hair spray. It isn't the hairspray, it is what is in the spray that makes it work. Some have silicones and those definitely are out. I think it is the sprays with Vinyl Acetate and no silicones that work.

Page 386 of 411 FirstFirst ... 286336376384385386387388396 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •