Aluminum bed upgrade?

[CoffeeCup]

I can't seem to find info on reasons to upgrade to an aluminum hot bed. Anybody know? I'm about to purchase a Makerfarm i3v and wondering if I should get the aluminum bed.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Some have experienced problems with the wood bed frame warping with repeated heat cycles while printing ABS. Causes first layer variation within a single print and increases Z banding. If I was buying a new I3v I would definitely get it. I will probably get it for my year old I3v even though it's $38 with shipping. Grrrrrr.

[CoffeeCup]

Okay thanks I plan on printing with ABS regularly so I'll get one.

I'm not sure what type of power supply cord to get for the power supply. Makerfarm recommends getting the wiring kit with the power supply but the wiring kit is sold out. Would a 16/3 power cord like this work? Prime PS010608 8-Feet 16/3 SJTW Replacement Power Supply Cord, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0022NH7G8..._AHHWvb0HZFWCS

[printbus]

That cord should be fine. Many people just cut the end off an extra computer or similar power cord that they had laying around. The power supplies don't have an on/off switch. If you don't want to unplug the printer to shut it off, a common solution is to plug the printer into a switched outlet strip.

On the aluminum plate, note that the aluminum plate may weigh considerably more than the stock wood one. Worst case, you might need to slow down the acceleration settings for the Y axis in Marlin to keep the Y motor from skipping steps at movement starts/stops. If you have a digital scale that can read grams or fractions of ounces, be sure to weigh both the wood bed and the aluminum bed and report back on what you measure. People have been wondering what these new aluminum beds weigh - an obvious detail that MakerFarm hasn't listed.

[ZorAxe]

One advantage is that if one day you want to upgrade to auto-leveling via proximity sensor, then you have the hot bed always.

[CoffeeCup]

What do you mean you have the hot bed already?

[tsteever]

There are two different parts being discussed it appears. The Aluminum Heat bed and the Aluminum Y-axis which the Heat bed attaches too. To use a proximity sensor you need to have a metal Heat bed (build plate). Most people use glass.

The aluminum Y-axix plate is the one being discussed here I believe. If you got the aluminum Y-axis plate you would still need a metal build plate to use proximity sensors.

For what it is worth, I upgraded to the aluminum plate cause my stock wooden plate was warping very badly. I also use Auto Bed leveling with a micro switch and I find it to be good enough.

[CoffeeCup]

I don't have any way to measure their weight unfortunately

[super fly]

That cord should be fine. Many people just cut the end off an extra computer or similar power cord that they had laying around. The power supplies don't have an on/off switch. If you don't want to unplug the printer to shut it off, a common solution is to plug the printer into a switched outlet strip.

On the aluminum plate, note that the aluminum plate may weigh considerably more than the stock wood one. Worst case, you might need to slow down the acceleration settings for the Y axis in Marlin to keep the Y motor from skipping steps at movement starts/stops. If you have a digital scale that can read grams or fractions of ounces, be sure to weigh both the wood bed and the aluminum bed and report back on what you measure. People have been wondering what these new aluminum beds weigh - an obvious detail that MakerFarm hasn't listed.

I was originally going to get an 8". Now I have my eyes on getting a 10" i3v, I figure for the price it will be nice to have the extra space just in case. I have been talking with Colin and doing quite of bit of research. Here is what I got from him on the wood vs aluminum bed weights.

I have the weights for the 12" heat bed mounts, which should be similar to the 10", just lighter.

The 12" aluminum bed is 1lb 11ounces, the 12" wood mount is 1lb 6 ounces so only 5 ounces different. My guess is the 10" difference is less, maybe 4 ounces.

What I'm thinking is 10", E3Dv6 .4mm 1.75mm filament, standard electronics and extruder. I'm not sure on the aluminum bed yet though. That's what led me to this post. Not to hijack the thread but thoughts/comments welcome. Thanks!

[BLKKROW]

Today I received the 12" aluminum Y Bed and can let you know mine is 780g.

I have not disassembled my printer so I don't know how much the wooden one weighs at this time.