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  1. #1
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    E3d-v6 Hotend Issues

    Hi guys,

    I recently installed a new hotend for my MakerFarm 10" i3v and it has been seizing extruding.
    The only way to clear this is to take it apart and perform a cold pull, this happens after it prints about 100mm of filament or so.
    I have taken a picture of what the filament looks like after it has been pulled.
    Any help would be great!

    Thanks,
    Daniel

    IMG_20150720_155408.jpgIMG_20150720_155417.jpg
    Last edited by danward; 07-20-2015 at 07:46 AM. Reason: Changed nozzle to hotend

  2. #2
    Technician
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    Dan,

    I can't tell much from the pulled filament, but a couple of things to check. First of all, make sure the little fan that cools the fins is actually running. It is very easy to damage the fan. Most, if not all, of my jambs which could not be cleared without disassembly have been related to the fan. Also, check you retraction settings. The heat break on the E3D works really well. So well that you can rest your fingers on the fins right above the hot end and they are cool. It seems to me, that if the retraction is too large, that it allows hot filament to get up into a cooler section of the unit.

    Also, you said you installed a new nozzle. I am assuming you mean the heated orifice on the E3D and not the whole new E3D. If so, it might be worthwhile to take it apart and make sure it is actually clear. Maybe even try another nozzle. Maybe the new one is defective.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalifDan View Post
    Dan,

    I can't tell much from the pulled filament, but a couple of things to check. First of all, make sure the little fan that cools the fins is actually running. It is very easy to damage the fan. Most, if not all, of my jambs which could not be cleared without disassembly have been related to the fan. Also, check you retraction settings. The heat break on the E3D works really well. So well that you can rest your fingers on the fins right above the hot end and they are cool. It seems to me, that if the retraction is too large, that it allows hot filament to get up into a cooler section of the unit.

    Also, you said you installed a new nozzle. I am assuming you mean the heated orifice on the E3D and not the whole new E3D. If so, it might be worthwhile to take it apart and make sure it is actually clear. Maybe even try another nozzle. Maybe the new one is defective.

    Hope this helps.
    Hi CalifDan,

    I replaced my hexagon nozzle with the e3d - that's what I meant by new nozzle! (My mistake!)
    The little fan is running fine, I just did a print and got the attached photo as a result.
    Also, the retraction is set to 0.5mm in slic3r.
    Thanks for your help!

    Dan

    IMG_20150720_171854.jpgIMG_20150720_171841.jpg

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training voodoo28's Avatar
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    What are your temps?

    Did you do the PID tuning after changing from the Hex over to E3D? They both use different thermisters did you change that in Marlin?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by voodoo28 View Post
    What are your temps?

    Did you do the PID tuning after changing from the Hex over to E3D? They both use different thermisters did you change that in Marlin?
    Using the e3d, I've been running it at 225c and it extrudes fine for the first 2/3 layers.
    PID tuning was done on the e3d and bed after the new hotend was installed.
    Hotend thermistor is set to type 5, with BeckDac firmware installed.
    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Dan,

    You might need to give us some additional information. Is this PLA or ABS? What size filament are you using? If I had the print you pictured I would be looking at anything that is preventing a steady flow of filament. I indicated in another thread that I made some parts to install bearings in the filament spool. I found that the stock unit just would not consistently pull the spool with the drag induced by mounting it on a stick rather than bearings.

    I don't know if you can manually adjust temperature and feed rate dynamically, but if you can on that test part, I would spend a little time to see what each adjustment (temp and flow rate) have on the results. If you have the stock extruder, I would make sure that the feed wheel is not skipping on the filament.

    If you are using the 1.75 E3D make sure that you have the Teflon tube inserted inside the barrel.

    I do PLA at 212. Sometimes on very small parts, or low time layers on larger parts, I have to turn the temp up to about 220 and make sure there is no retraction.

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training voodoo28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danward View Post
    Hotend thermistor is set to type 5, with BeckDac firmware installed.
    Thanks!
    Shouldn't you be using Type 1?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalifDan View Post
    Dan,

    You might need to give us some additional information. Is this PLA or ABS? What size filament are you using? If I had the print you pictured I would be looking at anything that is preventing a steady flow of filament. I indicated in another thread that I made some parts to install bearings in the filament spool. I found that the stock unit just would not consistently pull the spool with the drag induced by mounting it on a stick rather than bearings.

    I don't know if you can manually adjust temperature and feed rate dynamically, but if you can on that test part, I would spend a little time to see what each adjustment (temp and flow rate) have on the results. If you have the stock extruder, I would make sure that the feed wheel is not skipping on the filament.

    If you are using the 1.75 E3D make sure that you have the Teflon tube inserted inside the barrel.

    I do PLA at 212. Sometimes on very small parts, or low time layers on larger parts, I have to turn the temp up to about 220 and make sure there is no retraction.
    I'm using 1.75mm PLA.
    I have slic3r set to a 1.35 extrusion multiplier as otherwise it comes out at 0.3125mm.
    The PTFE tube is completely inside the barrel, I have checked this multiple times. I can change both temperature on the fly, I'm not sure where the feed rate settings are though. Unless its the Fr on the main screen?
    And as far as I can tell, it isn't skipping on the feed wheel - it only starts skipping after it got clogged and required a cold pull (twice, like in the first post).
    I'm going to try and clean out the brass nozzle today in case there is anything stuck in there. Is there any recommended methods of doing this? I saw some with a blow torch heating it up, I was going to try that.

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoo28 View Post
    Shouldn't you be using Type 1?
    It says type 5 on the official wiki.
    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Marlin


    Thanks guys!

  9. #9
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    Daniel,

    May not be relevant, but I was having a similar issue with extruding while I was trying to calibrate e steps.

    Using pronterface I would extract 100 mm, but it would slow down and stop about 20 -30 mm in. If I pulled out the filament and cut off the expanded bulb I would try again with the same results. Clean even feeding for the first bit, then jam, After cleaning the nozzle several times and trying a variety of temps I tried adjusting the feedrate. The default in pronterface is 100mm, bumping it down to 50mm gave me perfect extrudes every time.

    The best I could determine is that the feedrate was too high to melt the PLA filament quick enough to extrude, and raising the temp was just pushing heat up into the cold end part.

    Not sure if it will help, but something to think about.

    Bill

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