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  1. #1
    Student jheikkila54's Avatar
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    Printing with PETG

    Hey Guys,

    I been printing with PETG for about 20 hours now and gotta say that I love it. It is very strong/durable, doenst warp, lift, or crack like ABS and isnt as brittle as PLA. It also has a higher density, so objects have that heavier quality feel to them. It took a but to dial in the print temp and retraction settings, get some strings but seems to be just one minor disadvantage.

    I do have one problem, well sort of a problem, that I would like help diagnosing. Attached are 2 photos showing a 12 inch object that I printed standing up, has no infill, just 4 perimeters. You can see spots in the layers where the line makes an indent looking strech. Whether it underextruded there or it did something else, I would like to get this fixed.
    IMG_0459.JPGIMG_0460.jpg

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Sep 2014
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    Hard to tell, but could it be steam bubbles distorting the thread?

    I have been printing with PETG a lot too lately and agree: it is a wonderful filament.

    However, the PETG I have does tend to absorb water and can have an issue with steam bubbles. Not as much as nylon, but still noticeable. After a couple of hours of vacuum-drying at 150 mbar and 70 Celsius, it prints absolutely perfectly again. I have translucent types which have a glass-like appearance. With these the stream bubbles are very visible when the filament is not perfectly dry.

    Albert.

  3. #3
    Staff Engineer LambdaFF's Avatar
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    My guess : this is where your layer started, IF you use random starting points in your layers (this can be specified in the slicer). Try to find in your slicer the parameters that propose to add or remove after a retraction.
    In S3D it is on the first tab : you can put negative addition after a retraction move so that you don't "flood" the start point of your layer.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Well my first guess would have been layer stitching. But looking at the picture again, there are multiple issues on single layers.

    It's more like a feed issue. I'd be inclined to try either a slightly higher temperature or nudge the extrusion % a little.

  5. #5
    Engineer
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    Oct 2013
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    Those are starts and stops of each layer. It looks like there are multiple spots per line because its translucent filament. Gather your start points so you jave a seam then you can tune your ooze control settings

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    nope, look again, there are just way way too many blobs there for standard stitching. The filament is not extruding smoothly.
    There are 4 or 5 spots visible on asingle layer just in the section we can see in the pics.
    If this is what you think of as normal stitching jim - you've got some weird printer problems of your own.

    Slow the printspeed and/or up the print temp and they'll most likely go away or at least be reduced to the single spot per line.

  7. #7
    Engineer Marm's Avatar
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    Well, it's an easy Dx. Set it so your layers all start on the same point. If there's still random bubbles, then it's not your layer start point.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yep that'll work :-)

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    just brought a sample of t-glase from taulman.

    I wonder if this will be the first taulman filament that actually prints the way taulman claim :-)
    At the moment I'm three for three of really really crap filament. nylon 618 and nylon bridge and alloy 910 are all pretty much unusable without a heated chamber. and probably not great with one. The alloy 910 is actually worse to use than the nylon 618 - if you can believe that.

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