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  1. #11
    Results of the Benchy print:
    - stringing because of too little retraction as I needed to switch to longer bowden tube after extending the axes
    - few skipped steps in Y-axis at the lowest layers. Might be that I have the motor mounts tightened bit too tight. No skips after those at the beginning, though.
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2020.00.10.jpg
    - X-axis has banding, it doesn't move very smoothly after all. I suspect that this is because the gear's teeth aren't the smoothest and causes small bumps that the hot end mount structure amplifies. Need to reprint it with Prusa MK2 to get better quality.
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.04.jpg
    - Y axis movement is quite good actually
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.30.jpg
    - overall the quality is passable
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.15.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.40.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.45.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2020.00.10.jpg

    So there's work to be done for the rack and gear setup if good quality is desired, especially in X-axis. Also simply by doing more prints, the quality might improve to a point when the parts smooth out in use. Or not .

  2. #12
    New bed carriage part in the making, lots stiffer that previous iteration. Also switched to printed bolts

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2014.48.24.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2014.49.01.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2012.42.25.jpg

    For the translucent part the settings were 3 perimeters and 30% infill. Took almost 9 hours to print on Prusa MK2. Maybe bit overkill, but what the heck... cheap 3D Druck PLA.

  3. #13
    Bed carraige installed and much more stable that the previous iteration:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.39.20.jpg

    Also started modeling and printing some parts to stabilize the frame:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.46.05.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.46.13.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.46.38.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.55.11.jpg

    For the X-axis, I printed new gear, using Polymax PLA, which should be stronger that regular PLA. Not sure about that, but I guess we'll see:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.46.21.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2018.46.32.jpg

  4. #14
    Testing the parts stabilizer parts:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.30.47.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.30.55.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.31.00.jpg
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.31.28.jpg

    Seems to work very well, even with tension only between two corners. Needs more parts so I can tension the whole thing form all corners and from other side, too. Might do some optimization and simplification about the parts, might have overthought things again...

  5. #15
    Hmm it seems Dropbox has changed things and previous links aren't working anymore. Well the link to the Dollo-folder works: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g2z5027vm...vJxo-6MXa?dl=0

    Got the frame stabilized, seems to work fine during printing. Stabilizer parts do restrict access to inside of the printer, I might have to rethink them later. But it works:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgeybac7mn...31.33.jpg?dl=0

    Had some problems with RAMPS, hot end FET had a broken leg which caused some smoke to erupt. Luckily i have extra LM1117 5V regulators so I could fix the Arduino. I changed the setup so that RAMPS doesn't power the Arduino, instead I installed Octoprint to Raspberry pi and mounted it on the frame. Raspi powers the Arduino, seems to be working well. Now all my printers are run by Octoprint. Had to change hostnames for the Octoprint instances so there's no name collisions in my LAN.

    Also installed a bed level sensor to autolevel the bed:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfqvuf27nz...38.25.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/cjk1auv9ru...13.02.jpg?dl=0

    The sensor is LJ18A3-8-Z/BX, 8mm NPN inductive sensor. Operating voltage is 6-36V, but it seemed to work with 5V. Still, I soldered a voltage divider on it and feed 12V to it, voltage divider lowers the signal voltage to 5V. Marlin config and tuning the distance took some time, but now it seems to work ok.

  6. #16
    For the firts time I've actually been just using Dollo, instead of building or tweaking it. I've been printing these containers in hopes that I can get at least some of my stuff organized. In current form, Sollo is working quite nicely: bed leveling works and seems accurate enough. Prints come out without deviations, and even though they do have some artifacts caused by small bumps on X- and Y-axes, they are perfectly usable. There's not much to actually improve; only thing I really need is a part cooling fan for printing PLA. And quality, but it's good enough for the stuff I'm going to use this thing for. I think I'll buy E3D volcano and print large stuff with 0.8mm nozzle or something.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5i970in1jm...51.42.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/3j1dxi3lwl...52.05.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/jne9uhhrdt...52.17.jpg?dl=0

    Material: different colors of PETG, mostly Esun. Red is 3DJake and clear is Extrudr

  7. #17
    Hey, wow, glad to see someone actually made a dollo and got it working. I found the dollo through the reprap wiki a few months ago and was initially disappointing at the lack of available information on it. Despite this, I'm still fascinated by the design and would like to move forward in making one this summer. Any advice on doing so? Should I even bother with the unique z-axis design or try for the normal threaded rod initially? Any advice on 3d printing services to print the parts rather than printing them on the school's printer? What motors would be best to use? I hope someone can help me out here. . .

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_Hinson View Post
    Hey, wow, glad to see someone actually made a dollo and got it working. I found the dollo through the reprap wiki a few months ago and was initially disappointing at the lack of available information on it. Despite this, I'm still fascinated by the design and would like to move forward in making one this summer. Any advice on doing so? Should I even bother with the unique z-axis design or try for the normal threaded rod initially? Any advice on 3d printing services to print the parts rather than printing them on the school's printer? What motors would be best to use? I hope someone can help me out here. . .
    Alright, you make 3rd active, or at least interested, person regarding Dollo . Ok so I'll try to give some information about how to go on about building one:

    • If you are going to print the parts yourself, make sure you have well calibrated machine. Print only few different parts and see how well they fit together. If they are too loose or too tight, you can use scaling option in your Slicer to slightly change the size of the parts. Do this for all the ties and extensions. Also the X and Y rails and motor mounts are good to check.
    • Also if using multiple printers, this goes double of course
    • About printing services I know nothing, I haven't used them. But I'd expect them to have good quality if they do it professionally
    • Material: I used PLA for most of the parts. It's quite rigid and seems to work well. For some of the long ties and bow ties I switched to PETG, mostly because it's bit more flexible and can be used with parts that vary in dimensions (see first bullet, I have too much variation and it's PITA on some parts). PETG might also be better for X and Y axis racks, might slide better
    • PLA needs lubricant to make the axes move. The problem with friction is heat; PLA heats up fast to 60+ degrees and softens -> it jams. What I'm using successfully is http://www.wurth.fi/site/media/pdf/t...LIKONRASVA.pdf. Sorry it's Finnish, but basically silicon grease, quite thick but works like charm. Longest print on Dollo was over 11h, no problems. I tried a quite runny generic oil but this caused random missed steps and it was evident that it's doesn't work as well when by moving the axes by hand the axes did stick more.
    • Assembly: if the parts fit well, it's quite easy. If needed, sandpaper and file tools are good to have around (along with hammer, heat gun, sharp knife etc. ). I used sandpaper for X and Y racks to make them smoother, so those can be actually printed to be quite tight and sanded for best fit.
    • Z axis: if you want a printer that produces decent prints, go with the traditional lead screw setup. The original Dollo Z-axis needs work to make it viable. It works, but not well. Tackling it is on my very long to do list
    • Motors: it shouldn't need that powerful steppers, I have these http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/09d...04s-p-122.html for Z-leadscrews and http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/3d-...004s-p-18.html for X and Y. Both types are 2A motors, but I'm not running them at even half of that. This of course how easily the axes move.
    • Electronics: shouldn't really matter as long as it can drive 4 axes (X,Y,Z,E) and few with multiple motors. I think all boards should be capable. However, I've only used chinese RAMPS 1.4 with Dollo. Getting a better board is advisable if you are concerned about how reliable and stable such board is. But since this is kind of a budget endeavor, RAMPS is not a bad deal, even with full graphics display.


    I'm still using and upgrading my build. Been tied on other project lately, got a Prometheus system a while back and been tinkering with it.
    But this is what I'm working on currently:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4k8wru43q...44.43.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/jl3k48oa7r...44.50.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/zgalspijm7...44.57.jpg?dl=0

    A part cooling fan for printing PLA. I've had to redesign couple of X coupler parts to make room under the X-axis, there's not much of it. Will post more pics when I get it finished.

    Future ideas: as I saw https://www.bcn3dtechnologies.com/en...r/bcn3d-sigma/ with dual X-carriages, I thought that Dollo could have such setup quite easily: just print another motor mount, gear, hotend mount and extruder, add stepper extender to RAMPS, tune firmware and off you go. Well might need something more than that , but entirely doable.

    Edit: again it seems that Dropbox links might not be working. I need to find something better to serve the pics. For now, here's the link to all of the pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g2z5027vm...vJxo-6MXa?dl=0 (hopefully working...)
    Last edited by spegelius; 05-03-2017 at 10:36 AM.

  9. #19
    Thanks for the response. The dopbox full of pictures is very useful in helping me visualize the task ahead. Right now I'm trying to assemble a BOM and approximate cost. Anything you can tell me on that front? On a related note, how long did it take to print all the printed parts? I tried putting a single corner and extention into my schools 3d printer and it estimated ~30 hours to finish

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_Hinson View Post
    Thanks for the response. The dopbox full of pictures is very useful in helping me visualize the task ahead. Right now I'm trying to assemble a BOM and approximate cost. Anything you can tell me on that front? On a related note, how long did it take to print all the printed parts? I tried putting a single corner and extention into my schools 3d printer and it estimated ~30 hours to finish
    Hmm,if I remember correctly, the non-printed parts cost about 170 eur. I had most of the crews already, but buying those isn't a big cost. I didn't try to find the cheapest parts, because getting el cheapo chinese E3Dv6 hotend hascaused way too much trouble. Also wanted to make sure that the motors are powerful enough, just in case.

    For the initial build, I think I used around 2 1kg rolls of PLA. Granted, I didn't have the settings tuned for least amount of filament use and I had to reprint some of the stuff after finding out they don't fit. Initial printing took about 2 weeks, with a slow af modded Cube2. Which also made all parts slightly too small. I didn't count the smaller parts as I thought that once I start to build the thing, I'll just print them as I go. Which I did, printing the missing bow ties etc. took few days.

    Of course the current models on my github have changed quite a lot so the original BOM isn't valid anymore. Practically all the Z-axis stuff using lead screws is my design and should be documented. Also the racks and motor gears have gone through few iterations. And hotend mount. And other random bits and pieces. I'll see if I can get and updated BOM done soon.

    Update on the fan duct: got it installed and working. It's not working 100% yet, the airflow should be directed more to the nozzle. As can be seen on the Benchy pictures below, the chimney hasn't cooled properly. Otherwise the quality is quite good. Well, apart from the retraction jams on the cabin, E3Dv6 clone again... have to do some cooling modifications on it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/owqvuk6hg9...55.44.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/009jbg36zl...56.13.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5haierfr3t...44.12.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/yieg0og7pd...44.36.jpg?dl=0
    Last edited by spegelius; 05-05-2017 at 02:16 AM.

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