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Thread: 10" Y Plate

  1. #11
    Technologist
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    Nov 2014
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    After working out the interferences for putting the reinforcement on the underbelly of the Y-Bed Carriage, I started thinking why can't I just put it on the top. I am using a piece of cork for insulation between the heat bed & the wooden Y-Carriage bed & there is probably 7mm of clearance between the top of the cork & the heat bed. Of course the heat bed wires do stick down a little. What I have come up with is to use an 8mm - 8 sided cylinder bump all around the top & on both sides of the center triangle cuts in the bed. After printing one half in PETG, it seems to have more strength but still has some flex to it, so I gave this some more thought. I had considered putting some 1/8" brass rod into the edges, but came up with a simpler way to attach them by just cutting some grooves in the top & later melt them into it with a soldering iron. The brass would add only 2oz to the weight. Another benefit of the bump reinforcement on top is that it is 4mm above the top of the bed & just at the top of where the nuts are, so I do not have to cut any recesses in the cork for them. I may have to cut a little bit around where the wires to the heat bed attach. I attached a photo of the latest print & an openscad screen capture of what it should look like with the brass rods attached.
    IMG_7386_800x600.jpgY-BuildWith4xBrassRods.jpg
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  2. #12
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    I attached the plastic Y-bed carriage to test it yesterday & got as far as leveling the 3rd corner before hitting a problem. I printed this test part in PETG at .2 infill. Actually ran into 2 problems, but one was minor. The minor problem was I did not leave enough room around the Wheel nuts to get the wrench around them easy. That is easy to fix. I used 1/8" brass rod to stiffen the frame & it worked quite well, but there was a little flex between the wheels & the corners. Thicker infill & printing in ABS may fix that problem, but am adding some plastic to the design as well. The combination of those 3 elements I believe will fix that problem. All the screws lined up well. I did measure the distance between the hotbed mounting screws & they were off by about 1mm from the design. Over a 248.6mm distance, I guess that is within tolerance. I am printing a new version in color changing ABS today at .6 infill. I am about an hour into this 4.5 hour print & it is looking good so far. If it does not lift off the bed, this maybe the last iteration before releasing this design on thingiverse. I attached some photos of the assembly & 1 photo of the new version I am printing today.IMG_7449_800x600.jpgIMG_7451_800x600.jpgIMG_7456_800x600.jpgIMG_7457_800x600.jpgY-Build_Extendedrev37.jpg

  3. #13
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    I spoke too soon. The ABS lifted up from a corner on the BuildTak surface after about an hour an half of printing. I will try one more print with the new version using PETG at .7 infill & see if those 2 changes will fix the problem.

  4. #14
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    Looks like the latest part printed with PETG at .7 infill fixed the flexing problem, but I am going to print one more version of this as the back ledge I added flexes some. I added some more support like the attached photo. I am not sure I really need the brass in there now. Hopefully I will have time to print this tomorrow & finally get it off my plate. The last part took 5.25 hours. This one will take probably take 5.5 to 6 hours.Y-Build_Extendedrev38.jpg

  5. #15
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    Add usarmyaircav on Google+ Add usarmyaircav on Thingiverse
    Thanks for your work on this. I am courious as to how the weight will compare with the one from Makerfarm.

  6. #16
    Technologist
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    A couple of versions back, I compared the weight when I had my machine apart. The original wooden part with all the hardware including the wheels weighed interesting enough at 1 lb even (that was with the solid V wheel). That did not include the weight of the heat bed, glass or heatbed mounting hardware. My version was 11.8oz with the same hardware attached. I have added some more plastic since then, but should be a little less than the wooden part.

  7. #17
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    Think I have finally printed a version that I am happy with. The brass really gives it some added strength & flatness with IMG_7462_800x600.jpgIMG_7465_800x600.jpgvery little additional weight. I will get my files together in the next day or so & upload to thingiverse. Here are a couple of images of half of the bed.

  8. #18
    Engineer-in-Training voodoo28's Avatar
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    Sweet dude!

  9. #19
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    The last version still had a flex problem between the wheels & where the heat bed mounts to the plate. I decided to try one more version before releasing this. I am adding 4 more short brass bars along the those points as shown in the photo. I also cut down on the amount of plastic in the print, since the brass should take care of most of the structure. I believe there is enough plastic height to get those short bars under the long bars. There was also a slight sag in the middle which is probably not really a problem, since the brass will keep it from sagging anymore & mounting points are on the outside corners. I am going to see if I can compensate for that by cutting the middle hole for the long brass bar .5mm lower to pull the middle up. The printed holes came out at a nice tight fit for the brass to go through. I am waiting for some more PETG plastic before printing this again.Y-BuildPlate_41.jpg

  10. #20
    now you just need to expand this out to a 12" size :-) since the 12" aluminium plate seems to have gone nowhere...

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