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  1. #1
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Coon Rapids, MN
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    15

    New guy checking in with Noob questions~

    Hey guys!

    Been reading some very informative posts here! I currently own a 10" i3v and working on doing the correct calibration on the unit. I'm using the calibration extruder esteps guide from gmay3 and I'm currently stuck on step #9. Every time I try to verify my changes in "Configuration.h", I get an error compiling message. I'm using Arduino 1.6.0 for the interface and downloaded the marlin software from the build guide. I'm also using RAMPS as well.

    Anyone have a way to point me in a direction to get the Arduino interface to cooperate? Thanks in advance!!!!

    Matt

  2. #2
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
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    15
    Ok so let's back up to step #4. I've allowed arduino IDE to create the new folder needed for the "Marlin_RAMPS_EPCOS_i3v10.pds"

    Step #5, Am I suppose to cut and paste all the other files into the new folder? I did that and it cured my verify problem I was having, but now there isn't enough room on the RAMPS to burn to. So I assume that I need only a select number of files in the folder? I know I need the "configuration.h" file, but if I only have that file in the folder, I get a verification fail and can't burn to the RAMPS. I'm missing something and trying to figure out what.

  3. #3
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    A few things,

    You may be able to change the Esteps from your LCD display and not have to modify and upload your firmware. If you go to the control menu and look at the bottom of that menu and see a Save Memory option you should be able to change the Esteps in the Control/Motion menu then go to Save Memory and it should save it to your eprom. To verify it worked power off the printer then check the estep value to make sure it is the same that you set it to.

    Second on your firmware issue make sure that you copy the U8glib folder from the place you extracted your FW to, to the Arduino/Libraries folder. There should be a readme.txt file in the firmware that you downloaded that has the instructions for this.

    I had a similar issue with compiling the firmware because I had copied the U8glib folder to the Arduino/Lib instead of Arduino/Libraries.

    Hope this helps.
    Chadd

  4. #4
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    Posts
    15
    OK! scratch all of that! I wasn't thinking and tried sending info to the COM port of the printer while having repetier connected to the printer. Got it burned and enabled the EEPROM settings for calibrating the extruder

  5. #5
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
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    Thanks for the reply Chadd. I tried changing the Esteps through the lcd but coudn't get it to save. Hoping I got it down this time.

    Matt

  6. #6
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Do you have the Save Memory option under the Control menu? It will be at the very bottom of that menu.

    Quote Originally Posted by mnmattie View Post
    Thanks for the reply Chadd. I tried changing the Esteps through the lcd but coudn't get it to save. Hoping I got it down this time.

    Matt

  7. #7
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    Posts
    15
    Yes I do. I was finally able to adjust my Esteps and have it save. I was able to get my Esteps alot closer to being dialed in, but still off by 1MM. Everytime I measure the filament and run out 100mm, I get a different number. I assume it takes a few tries to measure and adjust?

    My main issue (aside from not calibrating the machine correctly once I got it assembled and going) was my extruder would jam up after a while. Currently trying to print a replacement extruder as I warped mine pretty badly attempting to print ABS. Took a heat gun to attempt to warp it back so it's somewhat usable, at least to be able to print a replacement piece.

    Also my Z would move from print to print, been doing alot of reading on here and decided to try and setup the printer the right way from the beginning. Hope to get the Esteps dialed so it's only .1mm off and start with re-leveling my bed. I added a piece of cardboard with insulated tape to help retain heat (melted my J2 connector on the heated bed relay when trying to print ABS) and that's been working great. In the process I decided to raise my bed by adding a few washers under the solid corner, and now I'm thinking that I need to remove those washers as my bed isn't very ridged. Nothing like trial and error right?

    Matt

  8. #8
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    Well I was never able to get mine to come out correctly by following that guide. I think I ended up finding that my extrusion distance was changing by something like .22mm per 1 Estep change. When I would try to use the math that was shown in the tutorial it just didn't work. What I did was figured out how much the extrusion length was changing vs the amount I changed the Estep setting then used that number to dial it in. So say I changed the Estep setting by 25 and my extrusion length changed by 5.5mm. I took 5.5mm/25=.22 so that meant that my extrusion was changing by .22mm per Estep, I then figured out how far off my extrusion was and used the .22 mm per step to figure out how much I needed to change my Estep value. So say my extrusion length was off by 8mm I took 8mm/.22mm=36.36 so I would change the Estep by 36.36.

    Those weren't my actual numbers just showing how I figured it out.

    I really don't see how the math shown in the tutorial would ever work.

    Thanks,
    Chadd

    Quote Originally Posted by mnmattie View Post
    Yes I do. I was finally able to adjust my Esteps and have it save. I was able to get my Esteps alot closer to being dialed in, but still off by 1MM. Everytime I measure the filament and run out 100mm, I get a different number. I assume it takes a few tries to measure and adjust?

    My main issue (aside from not calibrating the machine correctly once I got it assembled and going) was my extruder would jam up after a while. Currently trying to print a replacement extruder as I warped mine pretty badly attempting to print ABS. Took a heat gun to attempt to warp it back so it's somewhat usable, at least to be able to print a replacement piece.

    Also my Z would move from print to print, been doing alot of reading on here and decided to try and setup the printer the right way from the beginning. Hope to get the Esteps dialed so it's only .1mm off and start with re-leveling my bed. I added a piece of cardboard with insulated tape to help retain heat (melted my J2 connector on the heated bed relay when trying to print ABS) and that's been working great. In the process I decided to raise my bed by adding a few washers under the solid corner, and now I'm thinking that I need to remove those washers as my bed isn't very ridged. Nothing like trial and error right?

    Matt

  9. #9
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    Posts
    15
    That makes much more sense! I will definitely give that a shot tonight when I get home.

    Also plan to Re-level the bed and use a drop indicator just to compare it against the X-axis and also the printer's mounting surface.

    I did order a mini servo and was able to print out the bracket needed for the ABL setup. Pretty excited to get that going after I work out all the other bugs and more calibration tests prior to installing the ABL. I'll make sure to post my calibration findings tonight, thanks Chadd!

    Matt

  10. #10
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    Posts
    15
    Didn't get a chance to tweak the Esteps lastnight, ended up being a late night at work.

    I did, however, get a chance to throw a dial indicator on the X carriage quickly to see if my bed was level. Result was, No! After my relay board melted, I decided to throw some insulation under the heated bed. I placed one layer of cardboard with cutouts for the screw heads, then another layer of cardboard with pipe tape insulation placed on top of that. Result was that raised my bed significantly. I offset the height by placing added washers under the corners. I ended up losing bed rigidity (little effort needed to move the bed in X and Y direction) Thinking I'll ditch the insulated piece of cardboard and just use the one piece of cardboard, hoping to regain some of my lost rigidity and creating a flatter print surface without the extra cardboard pushing up onto the glass.

    Matt

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