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  1. Heat creep causing the filament to soften and...

    Heat creep causing the filament to soften and then the extruder motor failing to push through reliably?

    I had some poor filament that was causing the extruder hobbed gear to become clogged, which...
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    Shift is normally caused by a problem with the...

    Shift is normally caused by a problem with the drive. This can be a failing cable or stepper motor, problem with the set up of the drive electronics or a sticky mechanism, causing the drive to stall...
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    Sounds like a problem with the printer. Have you...

    Sounds like a problem with the printer. Have you tried the files on the supplied SD card? These are simple to print and will prove if there is an issue.

    TBH, it's not an issue I have ever had, but...
  4. Personally I've used Printak for the past 2 years...

    Personally I've used Printak for the past 2 years and can print ABS and PLA without issue.

    The crucial bit is platform calibration and getting the gap right. To close and either the part is stuck...
  5. I would imagine the gear is clogged up with...

    I would imagine the gear is clogged up with filament dust and that the nozzle needs a clear out, along with possibly a new PTFE liner.

    I would also change the extruder drive to a sprung type, as...
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    Never had much luck with PVA based glue and ABS,...

    Never had much luck with PVA based glue and ABS, although PLA was always OK.

    For ABS, I use PrintTak and some spray adhesive. The combination is enough with my enclosed printer to avoid to much...
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    PLA has quite a low glass point - where it starts...

    PLA has quite a low glass point - where it starts to melt, and it is also a biodegradable material, so using it in any wet or high humidity will considerably reduce the life span.

    Not sure on your...
  8. ABS will last longer, has a higher melting point...

    ABS will last longer, has a higher melting point and is easier to sand and shape post print.

    There are plenty of free or paid for packages. I use Simply3D, which is quite expensive, but well...
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    +1 to what Autowiz said. The only weak point...

    +1 to what Autowiz said.

    The only weak point with the stock extruders is the filament feeder, which benefits from being fitted with a spring loaded idler. Easy and cheap to do.
  10. I've no direct experience, but the reviews...

    I've no direct experience, but the reviews suggest it is fine as a printer, but the scanner is poor.

    I think it also limits you to using the branded filament, so you probably need to factor in the...
  11. This has been asked in many ways, many times... ...

    This has been asked in many ways, many times...

    To scan in detail, you need a very high resolution scanner, which won't be cheap. There are photographic methods, but the results tend not to be...
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    Ahh, OK, I used this design...

    Ahh, OK, I used this design http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:616895
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    Ooze shield?

    Ooze shield?
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    Sorry, what part do you mean? Can you post a...

    Sorry, what part do you mean?

    Can you post a picture of it?
  15. Sounds like you have ruled out the slicer then....

    Sounds like you have ruled out the slicer then. Does it look correct in preview mode?

    Can you monitor the temps as it prints? I do wonder if there is a failing heater cable that's bending at a...
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    I've done more than 500 hours on the standard...

    I've done more than 500 hours on the standard setup, including ABS PLA and Ninjaflex, so I don't think you need to replace the whole thing.

    Regarding the thermocouples, if they look like this...
  17. What printer are you using? Is it possible...

    What printer are you using?

    Is it possible that the filament is not being pulled evenly into the extruder, maybe the tube is bending too far or something similar?

    Could even be the heater...
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    So long as you have the polarity correct, then...

    So long as you have the polarity correct, then yes I agree, you should see a voltage when at the correct height. Are you using the resistor method to connect to the Z stop and have you connected it...
  19. Hints and tips to cure faults and keep prints consistent

    Hi All.
    There are quite a few threads on here regarding upgrading your CTC printer, but not so many about curing faults and compensating for inherent weaknesses in the design. Here's my ideas, but...
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    Steve, was your printer working correctly to...

    Steve, was your printer working correctly to start off with and has now developed this fault?

    If it developed it, it is probably a failing stepper motor cable - usually the one that goes to the...
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    No, he is talking about one of these:...

    No, he is talking about one of these:...
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    Hmm, how much thicker? Mine are about 1mm - or 1...

    Hmm, how much thicker?
    Mine are about 1mm - or 1 washer thicker. The only important bit is to ensure that the feeder hole lines up with the hot end tube.

    Might be worth a little tweak and a play...
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    Reading your other post, I don't think this is...

    Reading your other post, I don't think this is anything to do with temperature, but poor filament drive. I have posted a solution I know worked on my CTC in your other thread.
  24. I would say you have a failing stepper motor...

    I would say you have a failing stepper motor cable that is intermittently losing one of the cores.

    I had the very same problem on my CTC. A new cable solved it right away.
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    Easy way to check basic accuracy is to check the...

    Easy way to check basic accuracy is to check the ambient temp and then compare it to the temp readings on the CTC.

    I found them to be very accurate for the thermocouple on the hotend. Not sure...
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