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Problem was that e-steps were totally wrong.
I have T-ballscrews and steps are 400
Hictop sellers provided me with nonstop wrong info or actually their retailer. They did not even know what model...

Ive been battling with temperature runaways on warm bed.
I'm keeping 110c on be for ABS printing
it prinst ok for a while, like 20 layers(it varies) then comes runaway and it asks for reset
I have...

Yeah great, i am a moron..
I had EEPROM enable so it overwrote the firmware settings.
so disable EEPROM if you want to use firmware settings!

I had 400 on Z-steps but LCD showed 2560 and then I...

I figured that I have lead screws. 8mm diameter, 2mm screw pitch.
calculated 1600 steps and then found out that since i have to divide that by 4 so it comes to 400
New firmware in and tested....

been struggling with hictop prusa i3 copy from china.
Z-axis is giving me a headache.

Example first.
If i move X or Y axis from repetier 1.0 the move 1.0mm but if i move Z 1.0 it moves 6.3mm
...

I had a problem at first, that after calibrating all to ok setting and nozzle homing right but when pushed print, it raised Z to 0.3 at start.
With slicer 'I was able to put in z-offset to -0.3 but...

did this ever get solved? I have same problem and when i start to print, it raises Z axis by 0.3 (reading on lcd)
Any ideas or clues?

Yeah im moron. did not read that there are calibration instructions on firmware but still other guestions are open..

Ok I threw the autolevel sensor away since it was not accurate at all. Its rated 6-36v and when measure from board pins it gives 4,94v only so I guess the accuracy goes way too low. Led lights ok etc...

it is actually 3dp-12 when with autolevel. I got new firmware from supplier but is there anything I should do to it before flashing or should I go with marlin firmware?

New fella to the scene. Build my first hictop prusa i3 3dp-11 with z-axis autolevel.
Havent had it working but once only.
Came here for find help for firmware(I have no save on LCD) and tips how to...

Hey
I bought this...