Sorry for taking my time, holidays.... you know. Here are the pics. Let me know if you need anymore. Just scrolled through the Utilities menu.
Attachment 8242Attachment 8245Attachment 8243Attachment 8244Attachment 8246
Printable View
Sorry for taking my time, holidays.... you know. Here are the pics. Let me know if you need anymore. Just scrolled through the Utilities menu.
Attachment 8242Attachment 8245Attachment 8243Attachment 8244Attachment 8246
The Flashforge has exactly the same size build plate. I use Qidi Tech built in bed leveling which works just fine. I've have used Simplify3D from day one so don't have a lot of experience with the other free software out there. Your temps are what I run except I have glass build plates and use Aquanet hairspray.
Odd, ok then. I've emailed their support in hopes that they can help identify the problem.
What firmware type and GPX profile did you all use in the process settings under GCode? Mine is listed as MakerBot/Sailfish Firmware with GPX profile os Replicator 1 - dual extruder.
Those two short tube are PTFE and they are in the extruders to prevent heat traveling up the extruder and melting the filament prematurely. With out the PTFE the filament will kink up and jam. You need to keep those in case you need to unclog the extruder and they become damaged.
I just got my QiDi today and hope to contribute to this thread.
That cube is a calibration cube that should measure 10mm x 10mm x10mm when it's done. It's not a bad idea to start with it to make sure the printer is properly calibrated.
I also had problems getting my objects unstuck from the blue build pad and that's why I switched to glass and hairspray.
I've now added Qidi's cooling fan to my extruders and I'm able to control it through Simplify3D settings. It does help my prints and so far I've tried it with PLA and PETG.
I will be doing a post on adding the factory cooling fan to an earlier model Qidi Tech soon.
Use the putty knife is the only advice I have what was your bed Temp when you printed?
Haven't tried it but wonder how Aquanet hairspray sprayed on the blue pad would work? Just don't get it all over the rest of the printer. I have several glass plates making it easy to swap and spray them outside the printer. I also like the glass build plates because when a prints done I just remove the whole plate from the printer and stick it the freezer for 10 minutes. It practically falls off after cooling off.
Did the glass bed upgrade, best thing so far!
Bought a 1/4 mirror from Goodwill for $10 and a $5 glass cutter from Lowes. Watched this video and it was pretty easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoOKeZEKhrM
Had to use this spacer for the bed, the one for the flashforge was slightly off: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225804
Glass brackets were made with the customizer: http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/cust...b354f416a74f22
When the mirror cools, the print pretty much falls off, don't forget to use hair spray. I have two mirrors now so I don't need to wait. I have enough mirror to make a couple more too. Awesome upgrade!
Attachment 8352
Attachment 8353
Sounds like you're on the right track.
Not true. I have upgraded my QiDi Tech 1 (with the MightyBoard with the Atmega1280) up to Sailfish 7.6 and now 7.7.
Here is how it was done:
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/a...#comment-29052
You can get to SF 7.1 without ISP programming.
To get to the later and better versions of SF you need to change the fuse bits in the 1280 chip. The MightyBoard in the Tech 1 is the same design used in FlashForge and CTC, all easily upgradeable to SF7.7 thru ReplicatorG.
QiDi simply screwed up the programming of the fuse bits.
Nice looks like I have another upgrade to try.
Qidi Tech just sold me a complete dual extruder assy. with cooling fan for a great price ($55) to replace the one my older model had without the cooling fan. I soldered a connector in the blank fan space on the board and it works fine with full software control. I'm still on the creator firmware. The only real difference between new and older MK10 extruders is the one with the cooling fan has tapped holes in the end of the cool block to attach the cooling fan mount. All these parts are available separately on ebay.
I seen someone asking for a screen shot of the firmware for the printer. Mine is one of the newer versions of this machine and is loaded with Sailfish 7.8.
Attachment 8400
Also can anyone tell my why my part came out like this?
Attachment 8401
It looks like it was doing good for the first half and then the rest started to get a little funky. It happened on 2 opposite corners. Not sure why?
Sorry for the crappy pics :(
It's hard to tell from the picture whats wrong there.
Simplify3D has print quality guide that might help.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/
I got it off finally. I picked up a skinny print removal tool from amazon. It works great. I am still using the blue pad because the tool gets it off pretty easy now.
Ok. I switched over from ReplicatorG to Makerbot software. I think I like it better than ReplicatorG. One thing though. I haven't figured out how to turn on the auxiliary pla cooling fan. Is anyone else using Makerbot and did they figure out how to turn on the cooling fan in the system? I've only used pla so far for printing.
My Qidi works fine in ReplicatorG.
But I run into problems with other SW that I downloded and tried.
When I export files from Makerbot Desktop version 3.8.11 , it will not set the extruder temp in the g-code. I've tried the Replicator Dual, the Replicator 2 and the Replicator 2x settings with the same result. I also tried to use the recognized Qidi-Printer setting when USB is connected, no dice. Anyone has a workaround for this, except manually setting the extruder-temp on the printer?
Lastly, has someone on this board a working Qidi calibration file for slic3r?
Any help woul be appreciated.
I currently use Makerbot Desktop with my Qidi printer. The Makerbot software has automatically recognized my printer when connected via USB. Normally I have connectivity issues if I start my computer before I turn on my printer. You can try to restart background services in the Makerbot software and see if that helps. I know it worked a couple times for me.
Thank you for your reply.
What firmware version is your Qidi running on, mine is running v7.8?
What version of Makerbot are you using, mine is v3.8.11?
What do you exactly mean by "restarting background services in Makerbot"?
I looked with a text editor in the setup-file for the Qidi in Makerbot and it recognizes the right extruder as extruder (0) and the left one as extruder (1) and is setting the selected temperatures correctly in the file. Makerbot seems to not create the correct g-codes (M104_T0/T1) in the build file and as a result, the extruders don't get heated.
Is there a way to look at the actual g-code created by Makerbot?
Update:
I've been printing with the 1/4 mirror for a couple weeks now and I love it! The prints literally just slide off the glass when it cools. The bottom side of the print is also really smooth which I've been using to my advantage. I've also found this little gem on thingaverse. It works much better than the bracket I started with as it kept loosening up. This one stays nice and tight!
I have noticed that the bed shakes a lot (for something that is supposed to be still), mostly left to right, anyone else have this issue? I've got a plan for this coming in the mail and will update on fix.
Attachment 8582
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1291106
Just got my QIDI printer from an Ebay purchase and of course I drew the short straw....
It is the newest version hardware/frame-wise, however it has the old extruder without the ability to add a fan (No holes in metal and no wires run either..), and of course doesn't have the fan either.
It also has a full menu ripped right from a makerbot (Says The Creator everywhere, and bot statistics, menu references an M button, and firmware version is Creator V1.0)
The menus also show no signs of a second extruder (only one to load, one to heat up, and only one listed under temps in monitor.
The support was a bit defensive at first until I showed them many many many pictures of what I received. I then was told they are going to ship me a new extruder set (I assume this comes with wires and cords etc) and a new 'motherboard'. I hoe this makes it like it is supposed to be.... any ideas?
I was told by them to try and use it in the meantime so I tried to print the sample on the sd card... Basically a HUGE rectangle lol.
Anyways, I noticed that the plate will vibrate and move (oscillations) when it gets moving and this of course makes the print look wavy and messed up... How do I resolve this? Seems to be caused by the fact the build plate is mounted with those springs. Any help appreciated.
That's unfortunate sounds like you had a previous version that was being sold up until December of last year.
That's what I have bought mine November 1st. I got a newer extruder assy. from them and it does come with everything.
The firmware is what most replicator clones have come with and does work fine it's open source.
I have updated my firmware to the latest Sailfish version but can't recommend anybody try it. It's significantly difficult to do on Qidi Techs.
I'm not sure why you guys are having build plate vibrations I've not really had that problem. Although the whole machine can occasionally get to rocking when the extruder makes a lot of short quick movements. You need those springs have you tried leveling your build plate?
That is exactly what I was thinking happened as well with the version I received...
After some confusion from them and maybe a little bit of stiff arm (They didn't believe me at first) they are sending the new motherboard, and extruder assembly and fan (And some hinges as they also gave me two different hinges for the door, one of them has a cut out so the hinge opens fully, and the other doesn't so the door only opens like 75 degrees lol). I am to understand (Hoping) that the new board will have the current and correct firmware on it, otherwise I am not going to be a happy camper. As it is on this current firmware it doesn't see nut one extruder... I can't see the temps of the second, or preheat, or even load it... :(
Did yours used to say 'The Creator' at the top of the menus?
Yes it did only with the version they started shipping in December did that change.
One thing I would like to see and you would be in a unique position to do this is a picture of both the old and new boards.
I want to compare them.
If you want to see what I went through to update to Sailfish read this thread.
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/avatar-iv-qidi-tech
I will totally do that for you!
I set this up with Astroprint (Raspberry Pi) and LOVE it, just can't wait for it to be what it is supposed to be lol. I am thinking I will go with an order of S3D in the near future as well. It does print lovely quality on the couple of things I have tried so far :)
Doe sit seem like an easy to replace part? I assume it is just unplug and plug back in making sure to get cords in the right places lol.
I didn't think about it until just now, but because I get to keep the old parts I will have a TON of motor drivers as spares lol, and even the extruder parts! (Minus the metal part with the screw holes and stuff lol.
I am hoping that the fan can be controlled with S3D or other software, I think I read somewhere that it can be.
Do you have pictures of your current setup? You replaced the extruder correct? Are you using the side mounted fan or a 3D printed shroud?
Qidi Tech sent me a complete new Extruder Assy. for $55 and yes it includes the cooling fan. I use S3D and it does control the fan.
I also have extra parts and even bought and few more spares from them on Ebay. They had great prices. Picked up a CTC printer for $150 on Craigslist locally and have rebuilt it using my original Qidi Tech extruders. It uses the same board as my Qidi Tech.
Here is a picture of my current set up.Attachment 8609
Nice setup! So the ctc works better with the extruders from QIDI? How easy was it to replace?
Oh I have some extra parts I got with mine that I don't know what it is for... Some little black plastic thing that has a hole in the middle and a flexible hinge that lets it pop open... No clue what it is for.
So I have noticed some weirdness on 'top' solo'd layers... Take a look at these:
http://3dprintboard.com/webkit-fake-...4e5c/imagejpeg
http://3dprintboard.com/webkit-fake-...fb61/imagejpeg
not sure why or how to fix it. Any ideas??
Your pictures didn't come through.
This forum has a lame way of adding images... lol
Attachment 8628Attachment 8629
I'm not an expert but that looks a little under extruded to me. Usually your last 2 to 4 layers are solid so it would need more plastic coming out quicker. Whats your extrusion percentage set at?
This link is a good guide to diagnose print issues https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/
I/m using whatever the default settings are in Makerware for the dual extruder they have as a device lol.
I need to get S3D... Do you use it?