Trouble keeping PLA print from falling over

To keep it simple I'm printing pretty much a cup.

I'm using a Makerfarm 12 Pegasus Basic with an E3Dv6-lite hotend w/ Titan extruder. .40mm nozzle and Slic3r 1.29

I have a glass bed that I clean with denatured alcohol.

I've leveled the bed manually using a spark plug gauge so the the nozzle is 0.23mm from the bed. (I had so close the 1st time I leveled it and blocked the nozzle).

I'm using Hatchbox PLA Nozzle temp is 205c and bed is 105 (it was 75 - 70 range but my room is a little cool at times and I'm getting desperate) this has addressed the part from lifting of the with the brim.

The 1st layer is 0.35mm and 0.2mm for the rest.

Up until recently I was printing fine without brims, I started using brims after I had a larger print that kept curling on the edges, I'm wondering if i should just go back to printing my small stuff with out brims.

The problem is even though I've set the brim to 10, and a Raft 3 layers high it starts to separate at the rafts connection to the model.

I'm unsure what I can do to address this, I willing to try a different slicer (but I question if this really is the problem).

Anybody have any insight they can share?

Thanks

Well I decided to skip the brim and raft , and go back to the glass with no extra, it appers to have resolved the issue on this print, It looks like I'll have to have a different strategy for each thing I print. I just migrated and over to S3D now and it appears to working well.

That gap is about 2X where I calibrate mine. 105 is crazy high of a bed temp for pla. That is what I use for ABS. Ever though about getting some acrylic sheets from depot or lowes and enclosing that thing. I am a believer in a controlled environment for printing any material.

Glass rocks for a build platform and is cheap. The only issue I have had printing on it is if a print (ABS) sticks too well to it you can get the glass surface to pop a section out.

Run at 60 for the first layer with some glue stick if needed and then you could drop the temp to 55 depending on the ambient room temp. 205 is an ok temp. I run 215 for first layer then drop to 205-200 or whatever works for that model etc.

I agree with the above two answers. 105 C for PLA is way-way-way too high. The glass transition point (the temperature at which it gets gooey) is 58-65 C for PLA. At 105 the lower layers will be so soft and gooey that the nozzle will drag the upper layers of the part off the lower ones. You want is soft enough to stick, but hard enough to support the upper layers.

I use 60 C bed temperature for PLA on a glass bed with 3DLac (glorified hairspray) with perfect adhesion all the time (also for ABS at 095C bed and PETG at 70C bed).

Just an update: I was overheating because I thought my room was too cool and getting desperate. It turns out my printers z axis is "drifting" upwards on one side. I corrected it and re-leveled the bed and moved the nozzle closer to the bed as well (0.1mm) and now it runs perfect. Have to keep an eye on the "z" axis though after a few prints it seems to drift up about 2-3mm higher on max X side of the bed.

Progress! Good to hear.

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Originally Posted by pochrist

Just an update: I was overheating because I thought my room was too cool and getting desperate. It turns out my printers z axis is "drifting" upwards on one side. I corrected it and re-leveled the bed and moved the nozzle closer to the bed as well (0.1mm) and now it runs perfect. Have to keep an eye on the "z" axis though after a few prints it seems to drift up about 2-3mm higher on max X side of the bed.

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That's good to hear. Sometimes we start making changes that we start going down a rabbit hole and loose sight of the starting points. Glad you got it figured out.