Slicer won't bridge this gap nicely ????

I used to have real good luck bridging gaps. But now I can't get Slicer to bridge the gap in a clean, nice way.

And depending upon which version of Slicer I use, it fails in a different way. The latest version (experimental V1.1.2) does the best, but it still screws up the perimeter of the bridge.

I've shrunken the failure down to a 5 minute print so you can see what I'm fighting.

If you can make it bridge cleanly... Can you please tell me what version of Slicer you are using and include your Print-Settings ???? It would help me immensely!

I use Cura, but it did fine for me.

http://i.imgur.com/KUFaOX7.jpg


Settings:

http://i.imgur.com/nXUcWeG.jpg

edit:

More settings: http://i.imgur.com/ewkZwJf.jpg


Not sure why vBulletin is enlarging that pic, I resized it for a reason. :/

I'm trying Cura right now with your settings as close as possible. (I have a .4 mm nozzle and 3mm filament, so obviously there have to be some changes.) It would have been good to take a picture of the slot cut into the block. This is going to be a nut trap on a X-Motor-End for a Prusa i3.

No Go! It tried to tack the filament back and forth across the gap, but it didn't stick and there wasn't enough there to provide support for the next layer. I'm bumping the advanced speeds down right now... Trying again:

Still No Go!

Back to fighting with Slicer!!!

PS. THANKS SO MUCH for giving it a whirl!

Ah, sorry to hear. The slot and hole came out really well for me... no issue there. Are you printing in ABS or PLA?

PLA. And the strange thing is I used to be impressed with how far I could bridge gaps. Now I can't even make the easy stuff happen. I'm wondering if I should switch filaments? There is something very small wrong and I can't figure it out.

Hmm, yeah, I was actually surprised by how well it bridged the gap. I printed it in PLA as well. My rostock has a pretty precise fan directed exactly at the extruded filament, I think that helps quite a bit.

Attachment 1322Attachment 1323I got some excellent results using Slic3r I am including the setting from my run. Here are my settings Copy as plain text to a file ending with ".ini" extension then import to Slic3r:: Note bed size & temp are dependent on your printer (I use a solidoodle4) but if it can handle them use these temps for ABS 1.75 with a .5mm extruder.

# generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC3 on Mon May 19 19:21:05 2014
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_size = 200,200
bed_temperature = 95
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = .75
bridge_speed = 75
brim_width = 0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
duplicate = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
duplicate_grid = 1,1
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors
external_perimeter_speed = 30
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = .6
extrusion_width = .42
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 30
filament_diameter = 1.75
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 0.2
fill_pattern = rectilinear
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 105
first_layer_extrusion_width = .42
first_layer_height = .3
first_layer_speed = 20
first_layer_temperature = 0
g0 = 0
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 3
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = .42
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_speed = 60
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.1
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 25
min_skirt_length = 0
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.5
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = .42
perimeter_speed = 55
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_center = 100,100
raft_layers = 0
randomize_start = 1
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_layer_change = 1
retract_length = 1
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 30
rotate = 0
scale = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 6
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 30
small_perimeter_speed = 30
solid_fill_pattern = concentric
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 4
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 50
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
start_perimeters_at_concave_points = 0
start_perimeters_at_non_overhang = 0
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = .25
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 0
support_material_interface_spacing = 2
support_material_pattern = honeycomb
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_threshold = 45
temperature = 205
thin_walls = 1
threads = 2
toolchange_gcode =
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 30
top_solid_layers = 4
travel_speed = 60
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
vibration_limit = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = -.19

Thanks!!! I see you modified the .STL! :) I'll check out all of your settings in the morning and see what I can make happen!

I'm completely new to 3d printing, to be perfectly honest I have a velleman k8200 which we just put together but haven't printed anything yet. (bad thermsisters sp?) so please forgive my ignorance. I was wondering if you changed the orientation of the model so when it printed, it printed the slot facing up wouldn't that eliminate the need to bridge the gap?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reffoxel

I'm completely new to 3d printing, to be perfectly honest I have a velleman k8200 which we just put together but haven't printed anything yet. (bad thermsisters sp?) so please forgive my ignorance. I was wondering if you changed the orientation of the model so when it printed, it printed the slot facing up wouldn't that eliminate the need to bridge the gap?

---

As it turns out... For the sample piece: "Yes!!! You could re-orientate it to avoid the need for a bridge." What I did was cut out the small section of what I was doing so the problem could be duplicated easier. (And since that time, we have had several experimental releases of the Slic3r program. The last one fixes the problem!)

But in reality, the answer is "No!" This section was cut out of this gear set. And pretty much, it needs to be orientated this way to print. The actual problem with bridging wasn't with the nut-trap. It was in other places where gear teeth needed to be supported.

The one small gear without support material is included just so you can see what it looks like. The other small gear with support material is designed to have the support material break away. The big gear is driven by a worm gear and the teeth on the upper side are right at the limit of what can be done.

If you want to see how difficult of a part your printer can handle... This .STL will put it right at the edge!