Changing infill pattern via proftweak

Infill pattern is honeycomb by default.
Sure it's strong, but slow to print and hard on the printer if printed at speed

Are there any other patterns available ?
A simple rectilinear one would be fastest and least wear on the printer.
Okay not as strong - but honestly I don't need every model to be super strong.
For a lot of stuff I'll want to print speed not is what I want not neccessarily the ability to jump up and down on it with out it breaking.

I figure a 10% rectilinear infill would cut print time down by about 50% from the honeycomb infill. Plus it would also extend the printer life :-)

So are there any other patterns available and if so - how do i change them ?

***

Ah ha !
Attachment 2064

I feel a small box test print coming on :-)

Right so that works - next :-)

Does anyone know where the standard profile files are stored.

I've tried editing the profiles in the miraclegrue folder, and that makes bugger all difference.

basically trying to set all infill to linear by default and change a couple of the standard settings that I have to change every single time.
But changing the 'miracle-' profiles doesn't seem to make any difference.

Yes i can set a custom profile. But you can only change them through proftweak. If I can alter a few default in the standard profiles then I can use the quick setup pages and still have the defaults I prefer.
If that makes sense :-)

I have never delved into anything other than hexagonal fill, and mainly because I'm not too fussed on what it looks like on the inside :) Linear looks like it takes a bit of plastic, the Morroc looks like it makes alot of unneccessary movements, and while the catfil does look really cool, it seems to me the printer is doing more work to make that infill than a standard hex shape..

I could be completely wrong, as I said never tried anything other than Hex, let me know how you get on and if any is faster than the other.

linear uses LESS plastic and as it's just straight movement is a lot easier on the printer as it's only moving in one axis at a time.
Basically it's a lot faster and almost a good for most things.

I'll do a time comparison on the same model in the next few days.

In fact 5 % infill is probably enough for a lot of things.

You probably hadn't realised (lol) but I'm urrently trying to see how fast I can print things.

Going to leave a stanford bunny printing overnight. It's scald up to be as big as I can possibly get it. While printing with 0 infill but 3 perimeters. Also .4 layer and 80 cms
It' going in the garden. Plus i discovered a little earlier with a smaller model that the abs paint trick fills in any cracks, smooths it out and makes it shiny in a couple of minutes.

Right going to print a bottle lid I just designed and then set bunny going and go to bed - 3am now :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

linear uses LESS plastic and as it's just straight movement is a lot easier on the printer as it's only moving in one axis at a time.
Basically it's a lot faster and almost a good for most things.

I'll do a time comparison on the same model in the next few days.

In fact 5 % infill is probably enough for a lot of things.

You probably hadn't realised (lol) but I'm urrently trying to see how fast I can print things.

Going to leave a stanford bunny printing overnight. It's scald up to be as big as I can possibly get it. While printing with 0 infill but 3 perimeters. Also .4 layer and 80 cms
It' going in the garden. Plus i discovered a little earlier with a smaller model that the abs paint trick fills in any cracks, smooths it out and makes it shiny in a couple of minutes.

Right going to print a bottle lid I just designed and then set bunny going and go to bed - 3am now :-)

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wow, wouldnt have thought.. I will get into it more in this prusa build I think, I really want to get it printing super fast, not worrying about that second nozzle will be a good thing.

I can't print faster than 80ms on this thing, any faster and it literally misses feeds and I get massive holes in the print.

hmm - what extruders do you have on your ?
I'm thinking flashforge have improved them considerably since you bought yours. Pretty sure I've got mk8 extruders.
All i know is that I have printed at 15cms - again because of makerware's anal resetting policy. And it worked. It was a cone at .4 and it was the only cone that wasn't watertight - but it did print.

My biggest bugbear is the way makerware resets all the sodding values if you so much as look at it crosswise.
I thought I was printing a big hollow bunny at 0.4 mm.

ha ha - what fool I am. It decided to print a filled in bunny - with honeycomb no less, even though I'm sure I've edited every config file there is and set it to linear as default. - at .2.

Yeah it's still printing.
I might get back on in a few hours, or tomorrow lol

One of the things you should find with the new printer geoff is that you can use all the other free software that's out there. My personal favourite is cura - but repetier host seems to get most people's votes.

You know they always tell you how long a kg roll of filament will last ?
There's not much left of the white abs after a few frantic days :-)
And I'm sick of stanford bunnies ! lol

*** (some time later - still printing bunny)

Ah ha - discovered what happened - when you change the settings to what you want and click create profile - it resets every single setting to high frigging quality. So I'm printing a 14 cm high stanford bunny at .1 bloody resolution. The damn thing's going in the garden, the dog will piddle on it .4 would have been fine. You have to laugh or you'd cry.

So basically it's pointless creating custom profiles in makerware as it just just automatically resets any changes. I think if you reset them through proftweak you might be able to get it to stick. But I think that's what I'd done. Hell i only got 4 hours sleep last night - I can't remember what I did :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

hmm - what extruders do you have on your ?
I'm thinking flashforge have improved them considerably since you bought yours. Pretty sure I've got mk8 extruders.
All i know is that I have printed at 15cms - again because of makerware's anal resetting policy. And it worked. It was a cone at .4 and it was the only cone that wasn't watertight - but it did print.

My biggest bugbear is the way makerware resets all the sodding values if you so much as look at it crosswise.
I thought I was printing a big hollow bunny at 0.4 mm.

ha ha - what fool I am. It decided to print a filled in bunny - with honeycomb no less, even though I'm sure I've edited every config file there is and set it to linear as default. - at .2.

Yeah it's still printing.
I might get back on in a few hours, or tomorrow lol

One of the things you should find with the new printer geoff is that you can use all the other free software that's out there. My personal favourite is cura - but repetier host seems to get most people's votes.

You know they always tell you how long a kg roll of filament will last ?
There's not much left of the white abs after a few frantic days :-)
And I'm sick of stanford bunnies ! lol

*** (some time later - still printing bunny)

Ah ha - discovered what happened - when you change the settings to what you want and click create profile - it resets every single setting to high frigging quality. So I'm printing a 14 cm high stanford bunny at .1 bloody resolution. The damn thing's going in the garden, the dog will piddle on it .4 would have been fine. You have to laugh or you'd cry.

So basically it's pointless creating custom profiles in makerware as it just just automatically resets any changes. I think if you reset them through proftweak you might be able to get it to stick. But I think that's what I'd done. Hell i only got 4 hours sleep last night - I can't remember what I did :-)

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I have the new extruders, I replaced the original ones, they are terribad. They can't feed any flex filament and they slip on wood filament and clear also. I'm glad they stopped selling them.

dunno then.

Anyway, righty's currently removed and cleaned. And I'll print that original extruder and fit a .5 brass nozzle before I reassemble him. if that doesn't orint ninjafles nothing will :-)
Discovered that I can tape the fan in place and it hits the end stop :-)

Other than that, it's all good in south derbyshire :-)
About 700 grams into the white had to change the painter tape. lol

Ps, didn't bother recalibrating - seems okay ;-)