Klic N Print mostly sorted, except left nozzle

After getting my stealth broken fuse replaced to fix the no power situation I was able to get into this some more today. I think I found the "secret" to making this beastie work properly with S3D... ignore the profile provided by KnP and just use the one for Makerbot 2X. This makes the heated bed work properly, gives full control over individual extruders, and opens up the build area to the full 225 mm width of the build table instead of the advertised 150. DO NOT waste your time trying to import and make the KnP profile work. You will just pull out your hair.

My one remaining issue is the left extruder nozzle is too high. Not so high that the filament wouldn't stick to the table but no squish at all so the bead is high enough for the other nozzle to hit the print and ruin it. I backed the nozzle out a fraction of a turn and was able to print successfully with the left extruder but not ideal to leave it loose. I need to figure out how to adjust it properly. Maybe tomorrow.

All replicator clones work best with the defualt replicator dual profile.
Probably haven't mentioned it recently - but it does come up on a regular basis :-)

I wish I had known that a couple days ago! Do you know how to adjust the nozzle height on this? I need to lower the left nozzle... or raise the right nozzle... maybe 1/32". I guess I could try to find a washer for the left but that would be a kluge.

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

All replicator clones work best with the defualt replicator dual profile.
Probably haven't mentioned it recently - but it does come up on a regular basis :-)

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OK, assuming the KnP is enough of a Makerbot clone such that the hot end is made the same, this procedure should work. The set screw to adjust the vertical is on the back.

https://www.google.com/search?q=adju...TF-8#kpvalbx=1

The above nozzle leveling procedure does indeed apply for this machine and is technically very easy to do, but not easy to get the 2 nozzles exactly even. I got them pretty close. Then I installed my glass plate and leveled the bed and I am having much better success. I have printed from both nozzles, a small model with the left that had only a little overlap with the inactive right nozzle and it did not interfere. Then I printed a large model with the right nozzle covering almost the entire bed area and the left nozzle did not interfere. I need to print the same large model with the left nozzle before declaring victory.

Success from a combination of factors but mostly the glass bed w/hairspray that provides more reliable adhesion that keeps the print surface as flat as possible so the inactive nozzle clears. I am getting more happy with this machine and for the price a little work to calibrate isn't a big deal.

What would be cool is a printhead that had a mechanism to retract the inactive nozzle a couple mm, but that would add to the complexity and cost.