New guy checking in with Noob questions~

Hey guys!

Been reading some very informative posts here! I currently own a 10" i3v and working on doing the correct calibration on the unit. I'm using the calibration extruder esteps guide from gmay3 and I'm currently stuck on step #9. Every time I try to verify my changes in "Configuration.h", I get an error compiling message. I'm using Arduino 1.6.0 for the interface and downloaded the marlin software from the build guide. I'm also using RAMPS as well.

Anyone have a way to point me in a direction to get the Arduino interface to cooperate? Thanks in advance!!!!

Matt

Ok so let's back up to step #4. I've allowed arduino IDE to create the new folder needed for the "Marlin_RAMPS_EPCOS_i3v10.pds"

Step #5, Am I suppose to cut and paste all the other files into the new folder? I did that and it cured my verify problem I was having, but now there isn't enough room on the RAMPS to burn to. So I assume that I need only a select number of files in the folder? I know I need the "configuration.h" file, but if I only have that file in the folder, I get a verification fail and can't burn to the RAMPS. I'm missing something and trying to figure out what.

A few things,

You may be able to change the Esteps from your LCD display and not have to modify and upload your firmware. If you go to the control menu and look at the bottom of that menu and see a Save Memory option you should be able to change the Esteps in the Control/Motion menu then go to Save Memory and it should save it to your eprom. To verify it worked power off the printer then check the estep value to make sure it is the same that you set it to.

Second on your firmware issue make sure that you copy the U8glib folder from the place you extracted your FW to, to the Arduino/Libraries folder. There should be a readme.txt file in the firmware that you downloaded that has the instructions for this.

I had a similar issue with compiling the firmware because I had copied the U8glib folder to the Arduino/Lib instead of Arduino/Libraries.

Hope this helps.
Chadd

OK! scratch all of that! I wasn't thinking and tried sending info to the COM port of the printer while having repetier connected to the printer. Got it burned and enabled the EEPROM settings for calibrating the extruder

Thanks for the reply Chadd. I tried changing the Esteps through the lcd but coudn't get it to save. Hoping I got it down this time.

Matt

Do you have the Save Memory option under the Control menu? It will be at the very bottom of that menu.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnmattie

Thanks for the reply Chadd. I tried changing the Esteps through the lcd but coudn't get it to save. Hoping I got it down this time.

Matt

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Yes I do. I was finally able to adjust my Esteps and have it save. I was able to get my Esteps alot closer to being dialed in, but still off by 1MM. Everytime I measure the filament and run out 100mm, I get a different number. I assume it takes a few tries to measure and adjust?

My main issue (aside from not calibrating the machine correctly once I got it assembled and going) was my extruder would jam up after a while. Currently trying to print a replacement extruder as I warped mine pretty badly attempting to print ABS. Took a heat gun to attempt to warp it back so it's somewhat usable, at least to be able to print a replacement piece.

Also my Z would move from print to print, been doing alot of reading on here and decided to try and setup the printer the right way from the beginning. Hope to get the Esteps dialed so it's only .1mm off and start with re-leveling my bed. I added a piece of cardboard with insulated tape to help retain heat (melted my J2 connector on the heated bed relay when trying to print ABS) and that's been working great. In the process I decided to raise my bed by adding a few washers under the solid corner, and now I'm thinking that I need to remove those washers as my bed isn't very ridged. Nothing like trial and error right? :)

Matt

Well I was never able to get mine to come out correctly by following that guide. I think I ended up finding that my extrusion distance was changing by something like .22mm per 1 Estep change. When I would try to use the math that was shown in the tutorial it just didn't work. What I did was figured out how much the extrusion length was changing vs the amount I changed the Estep setting then used that number to dial it in. So say I changed the Estep setting by 25 and my extrusion length changed by 5.5mm. I took 5.5mm/25=.22 so that meant that my extrusion was changing by .22mm per Estep, I then figured out how far off my extrusion was and used the .22 mm per step to figure out how much I needed to change my Estep value. So say my extrusion length was off by 8mm I took 8mm/.22mm=36.36 so I would change the Estep by 36.36.

Those weren't my actual numbers just showing how I figured it out.

I really don't see how the math shown in the tutorial would ever work.

Thanks,
Chadd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnmattie

Yes I do. I was finally able to adjust my Esteps and have it save. I was able to get my Esteps alot closer to being dialed in, but still off by 1MM. Everytime I measure the filament and run out 100mm, I get a different number. I assume it takes a few tries to measure and adjust?

My main issue (aside from not calibrating the machine correctly once I got it assembled and going) was my extruder would jam up after a while. Currently trying to print a replacement extruder as I warped mine pretty badly attempting to print ABS. Took a heat gun to attempt to warp it back so it's somewhat usable, at least to be able to print a replacement piece.

Also my Z would move from print to print, been doing alot of reading on here and decided to try and setup the printer the right way from the beginning. Hope to get the Esteps dialed so it's only .1mm off and start with re-leveling my bed. I added a piece of cardboard with insulated tape to help retain heat (melted my J2 connector on the heated bed relay when trying to print ABS) and that's been working great. In the process I decided to raise my bed by adding a few washers under the solid corner, and now I'm thinking that I need to remove those washers as my bed isn't very ridged. Nothing like trial and error right? :)

Matt

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That makes much more sense! I will definitely give that a shot tonight when I get home.

Also plan to Re-level the bed and use a drop indicator just to compare it against the X-axis and also the printer's mounting surface.

I did order a mini servo and was able to print out the bracket needed for the ABL setup. Pretty excited to get that going after I work out all the other bugs and more calibration tests prior to installing the ABL. I'll make sure to post my calibration findings tonight, thanks Chadd!

Matt

Didn't get a chance to tweak the Esteps lastnight, ended up being a late night at work.

I did, however, get a chance to throw a dial indicator on the X carriage quickly to see if my bed was level. Result was, No! After my relay board melted, I decided to throw some insulation under the heated bed. I placed one layer of cardboard with cutouts for the screw heads, then another layer of cardboard with pipe tape insulation placed on top of that. Result was that raised my bed significantly. I offset the height by placing added washers under the corners. I ended up losing bed rigidity (little effort needed to move the bed in X and Y direction) Thinking I'll ditch the insulated piece of cardboard and just use the one piece of cardboard, hoping to regain some of my lost rigidity and creating a flatter print surface without the extra cardboard pushing up onto the glass.

Matt

Ditched all the extra insulation under the bed with the exception of one piece of cardboard. Got my Z height dialed in and bed leveled. Adjusted my Estops and got it close enough to dial in the rest with the Extruder multiplier. Printed a fan shroud to see how it would do and it looked decent. Went to print the 20mm test cube and the extruder clogged up again. This has been another issue I've been having is that I can't print back-to-back prints. I need to pull out the filament, clip the end and start fresh otherwise it clogs up. Anyone else ran into this problem before?

I am able to measure the sides of the calibration cube and I get 20.06 and 20.00

what filament are you using and at what temp? it could be any number of issues

it could be filament being out of tolerance as far as diameter in just that small area...

if PLA if the temp starts creeping up the filament itself it can expand in the heatbreak area and cause a jam.

you could be printing faster than the hotend can keep up with...

and thats just to name a few.

Are you running the heatsink cooling fan all the time?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mnmattie

This has been another issue I've been having is that I can't print back-to-back prints. I need to pull out the filament, clip the end and start fresh otherwise it clogs up. Anyone else ran into this problem before?

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Hey mnmattie, I think the clog might be related to your guilder tension in your extruder. When your filament clogs and you have to take the filament out, do you see or feel a small C shape cut out of the side of the filament by the hobbed bolt? Sometimes when the two guider screws on you extruder are too tight or too loose there can be issues.

Currently running PLA from Microcenter, 1.75MM, white. I was perplexed that I could run one print, but couldn't run another print back to back without a jam.

I am running the heatsink cooling fan at 100% all the time.

Yes when I have a jam, the hobbed bolt chews up the filament.

I'm currently not running any type of filament/part cooler as I need to source another 40mmx10mm fan (on a side note, how did anyone tie in their filament fan? same circuit as the extruder fan?)

Reference for my speeds and info:

Perimeters-30mm/s
infill-40mm/s
bed temp-65
extruder temp-200

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