Over the last few weeks I've been reading about how adding a cooling fan to the FFCP could improve ABS printing results. I was skeptical, but thought It's not a difficult modification so 'Why Not'. I printed a calibration step cube before and after the mod...
It looks like they are printing in 2 different resolutions?
Left is after mod, right before mod.
Attachment 7891
It may look better but both are overextruded. It's possible also that you are melting at too high of temp, that's why the right one is so glossy. I say overextruded since even the cooled one has many rounded corners where they should be sharp. I've never printed that piece, but I am pretty sure all the corners are sharp and square.
Using S3D, what are some ways to fix the over-extruding? The cube is printed in Hatchbox ABS@ 230c with a bed (glass) temp of 115c. all other settings are default.
Set the correct average filament diameter. Then adjust extrusion multiplier. .92 is a good multiplier to start with. 115c for the bed temp is way hot for ABS. Use 90-95c. Use ABS slurry on glass, apply slurry when glass reaches 90c+.
Will adjust and test, thanks
Print at 100% infill also. What size is the model you printed? The base model is pretty small. Did you enlarge it any?
I didn't make any modification to the model, as I believe it design is specific to calibration. Once I have the next print complete I'll try and understand what to do with it.. :o
This is the model http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238
There's No need for the Extra fan at nozzles !
Just Lower the nozzle-temp instead !
I've noticed that Many people run nozzle-temp way Too high. :(
and the extra fan really gets in the way when working on or cleaning extruders.
The X & Y stepper-motors probably Do need a fan though.
Jfkansas is spot-on the money. Calibrate your extruders and use the correct temps.
I don't see any differences??
Attachment 7893Attachment 7894
Is there a good calibration/setup page for the FFCP for ABS anywhere?
I always use a cooling fan with my ABS prints, and they always look much better than if I did not use the cooling fan. It is what it is :P
But did you Try lowering the nozzle-temp, by the Same amount ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassna
The fan Only lowers the Actual Temp !
I've tried all kinds of temps, with and without fans, I actually do not have the cooling fan on my CTC yet because I gotta custom design it to fit right, which takes time :(Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleSeven
Don't exactly have any 'proof' of any of it, just kinda what I have stuck to after doing lots of the same prints. In fact, as much as I love ABS, I have switched to printing a lot of things with PLA just because it does not warp really, so I don't have to use a brim and have to do work after its done printing to get it normal. My CTC has been doing a good job with ABS and no enclosed chamber really. Glass bed + hair spray works wonders, even without the enclosed chamber. A lot also depends on how the model actually looks too imo.
This is your 3D printer setup bible. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ServiceXp
I found and printed a 'Cool looking' fan holder for CTC ;), at thingiverse,
but quickly learned that I did not need it, or want it in the Way.
So, now it's in the 'Wasted filament' box ! ;)
Thanks, Printing off box now... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
yep adding cooling fan improves all 3d printing - dramatically :-)
Can someone explain why there is such a difference in my before and after fan mod? I just don't understand what is going on here. If I lower the extruder temp below 220c, I get layer separation, If I cool the bed lower then 95, I get edge curling.
If I keep my temps at or above those temp I get Ok results, when I turn the cooling fan on, I get much better results.. I'm missing something here I'm afraid, maybe my speed settings??
Attachment 7896
A lot of people seem to think that the cooling fan changes the extruder's temperature. It does not. All the active cooling fan does is rapidly cool the already extruded filament before it can deform (the extruder temperature should be whatever gives the best extrusion without a bunch of leaking).
I'd have never guessed it'd make such a huge difference, thanks for the photo.
Since you brought up glass, I noticed the local library's Cube never produces curled bottoms, and they have glass platforms. I've used various on my platform and may get good adhesion for, at best, a few weeks, but they seem to all eventually curl. I hate to keep throwing money at this but do you feel glass is essential for adhesion/no curling? Thanks for any advice/info/opinion you may offer.
Are we talking ABS?.... In my limited experience, I wouldn't say glass is essential, I read many success stories with other materials.
It does however work very well for me. All I use is plain old extra hold hairspray on my glass. I can get about 4-6 prints before I need to clean it off and re-apply. I think there are 2 benefits from using glass (probably more), the first is flatness, and the second is after the glass cools, the prints just 'fall' off.
Curling/warping and lack of adhesion are no the same thing and can have very different causes and remedies. You are going to have to give more information.Quote:
Originally Posted by AmyInNH
Original surface on Flashforge worked great for 6 weeks, with short objects. Tall objects, no joy. Put a new one on, same thing send by the vendor, didn't work. Next up, Zebra mat, no joy. Hairspray, no joy. Even superglued rising edge, no joy. Anything taller than 3/4 inch curls. Anything under is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
Local library uses a Cube with glass, never a problem.
Curled object eventually rises enough that the extruder hits it and knocks it off the platform. Though curling alone a problem on this accuracy matters print.