One More Perplexing Issue with Printing

Okay -

As you can see from the screen shot, the model that I was trying to print does NOT have a display stand.

Is there any reason that Flashforge wants to make a flat display base it seems under the model when I print it out? It doesn't have it in real life.

Any settings in the menu to prevent it?

Here is a image of what I mean. It shows no display base in the printer software, yet the model was to seem "flat" with a display base at the bottom. I do not need support structures or anything like that if that is what it is. Can someone explain to me how to get rid of that? Thank you!

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...rshot002_1.jpg

John Thuot II
The Grey's Studios

If you get rid of the support then you will not get that once it is printed. You need to cut the support off after you print it. There is no way you can bridge that sort of distance with an FDM printer.

To remove the support is easy enough but without you telling us which slicer you are using no one can tell you how. You will end up with a birds nest of wasted plastic once you remove the support.

Thank you for the explanation. That explains it 100%. Appreciate it. :) What slicer would you recommend? As you can tell, I'm VERY new to this. LOL

I use Cura. Slic3r and Skeinforge are the traditional ones but Skeinforge is now old and does not seem to be supported any more though it is very capable. Slic3r to me, seemed to vary too much between releases so you had to learn it all again and it never seemed to do a good job. I like Cura.

Simplify3D seems to be very popular but you have to pay for it and it is not good if you have a real OS, it only works with Windo$e and you have to pay for it. Two good reasons for me not to have tried it right there.

Thank you - I will check into Cura. is there a setting you can use to create the support beams to be paper thin so they just cut off easily? I don't want to have to fuss with the cutting aspects afterward.

I appreciate your help Mjolinor. As I said, I'm a complete newb to it, and it is appreciated. I studied my manual about 3 times waiting for the printer, but I have a lot of questions coming, I'm sure. LOL

In Cura the support just breaks off when you grab it. You can also view it layer by layer in Cura and you can turn it off completely should you want a plastic filament bird nest.

Thanks - nope no bird nests for me man. I appreciate that info. At least it's easy. When you said, "Slicer" I thought you meant you had to cut it off. That shows you how new I am at this. LOL

okay - for one - mj has various printers not just flashforge.
cura won't work with flashforge machines.
In fact neither will the other two he mentioned either :-)
At least not without a lot of work and a gpx utility of some sort.

simplify3d is the best around - yeah you pay for it - to be honest it's the only software I've actually paid money for in the last 15 years. And yes it's worth the money.
Prints are sharper, cleaner and just better. You have more options than you can shake a lot of sticks at and it's out of the box compatible with ff machines - even with complete usb control.
It's also going to be compatible with any other printer you might get in the future.
But apparently not linux compatible ;-)

The main alternative to rep-g (which is the worst slicer I've ever seen) is makerware desktop.
download links here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-x86-computers
Pretty good, easy to use and does produce decent prints.

I use Cura with RepG. I have never succeeded in getting GPX to do anything despite really trying. I can tell you how GPX works, I have tried that hard I can probably quote sections of code from the source. :)

I would have to agree with the aardvark, S3D is well worth the money. Pay once, Cry Once... ;)

Thanks for all this info guys and gals. It is really helpful. I will investigate each option and report back after. Thank you.

start with makerware desktop.

Just be aware that it will reset a lot of the values for no good reason. Always go over the settings, carefully twice before pressing the print button.

And you won't end up printing a giant high quality filled stanford bunny that took 18 hours when you were aiming at a low resolution hollow one in 4 :-)

thank you for that advice - yes - I am trying to do quality work too since I'll be selling my fan art I make in Z-Brush at Comic Con this year. I have actually had a chance to use some software that I bought when I was trying to get into business for myself a while ago, but then thought, why not embelish this with a 3D Printer? What a way to show off my art. :).

I am working on my first piece in the back for the printer - a nice larger size Leonardo from Mutant Ninja Turtles 90s film version - I'll be doing the others after. Using my pen tablet I got a long time ago for it I have much more control than I ever thought possible in Zbrush.

Well, before I start rambling, have a good one all, and thank you very much again for all the oodles of information to go through. I will keep you ALL posted as to how I am making out. I'll post previews from time to time of my prints so you can see how much you've helped me.

Thanks again! Have a great day!