Yes I do makes things so much easier with more control.
Printable View
Yes I do makes things so much easier with more control.
Sorry for the delay, here is the picture of the two boards. I see no difference lol.
I am also adding the pictures of the replacement.
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I have developed a nasty sound from the Y axis. I was told by support it is just because of pressure and that I can fix it by loosening the grub screws on the two pulley's in the back corners, moving it back and forward a bunch fastm then pulling it all the way forward and tightening them down again.... Not sure if it will work. Make sense to you? I'll add videos here shortly of the sounds... I think it is because the rod in the back is bent slightly as the sound comes and goes when it rolls to the 'down' bent position... And when you move it un-powered you can feel it is smooth, then has more resistance, then less, then more, then less, etc, all in timing with that rod turning to the bent down position.
Man that does look like a bent rod.
And those boards are different. at first glance one board is missing a connector and chip.
I am thinking about doing an upgrade to the Build Plate.
Going with the MagHold magnetic build plate... Looks pretty epic, and useful!
On a side note I had a bad motor driver out of the box on that new board lol. I couldn't get the extruder to work, it would just click back and forth and make grinding noise, but if I hooked it to the other extruder's plug it worked fine, so i swapped it out and it worked!!! On a plus when the new board I got 5 extra drivers! woohoo!
Other then the Cutout connector which is not used they do look identical. You could use either board because the hardware seems the same. What might be different is the firmware version. But even with the older firmware the cooling fan was controllable when plugged into the 2nd from right plug. I've included a pic of my board with that plug circled in red. I had to actually add the green plug to my board as it was the one missing.
On my CTC which has the same board it had the green plug but was missing the little chip in front of the plug. I have since added that chip to it so it has a cooling fan now to.
Attachment 8655
My CTC has the same rod bent. Not sure how much it is effecting the printer. But will probably try finding a replacement.
Nice. I need to upgrade the other board to match the firmware so I have a backup. When I first got it I thought I messed up something so I selected the 'Factory reset' option... BIG MISTAKE!!! It took it back to a makerbot with ONE extruder. It no longer sees the second one at all. I am not sure how to get this firmware off and onto the other, shouldn't be too hard...
Is this too loose?
http://youtu.be/iI9YGnjzRVY
From what I can see that belt looks ok.
Changing the number of extruders might setting might be in the menu under utilities.
I looked through every menu and unfortunately it didn't have any options. It also clearly said it was a makerbot creator, not a device with a dual extruder, this leads me to believe they copied the firmware from a single extruder device.
Is it possible to pull the firmware from this device??
Also I am almost certain I am going to buy S3D as I tried a dual print today and while it did complete and isn't AWFUL, it sure aint pretty either. I just hope it is a slicer issue (I used makerbot whatever to do it) and not the printer's abilities (I have seen images of beautilful stuff from them so I assume it isn't the printer lol.
See below.
Have you tried dual printing yet? I honestly will use the second extruder for support with PVA (Have some on the way to me now!!!) but would like to dabble in things with flexible filament here and there for joints and such, as well as nice two color prints.
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I've not tried printing with the dual extruders yet. Usually just have different filament in them like PLA in one and PETG in the other.
Can you take a listen to this? Does yours sound any louder or quieter? The front to back sound seems nice and quiet and smooth, but now the left to right seems to have developed a loud noise... Maybe I am just being paranoid? Lol
http://youtu.be/eriNkt12vgc
Sounds normal to me
Under the advanced profile temp settings.
I set PLA to 195-200C with the bed at 60C.
ABS should be 230-240C with the bed around 100C.
PETG 235C and the bed 70C
If your in a colder area make sure the inside of your printer is at least 70F before you start printing.
Do you mind sharing your printer profile that you use in S3D??
Also S3D wants to print PLA at 230 for some reason by default... Weird?
I use Flashforge creator pro machine type.
You then have to edit temperature settings under the advanced profile settings.
Are you aware of a way to save profiles? Or filament settings?
Just picked up a Qidi on Ebay for 629 shipped. Looks like they lowered shipping to 130, and you can still get it for 499. So 629 bucks. Can't beat that.
In S3d you create and save processes. In the processes is all of the settings for machine types, filament types,extrusion and layer parameters.
Can anyone confirm if this is same model as spoken of in this thread?
And also if this is the official QIDI dealer on ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-The-New...4AAOSwLzdWS9Dq
Will be ordering mine today or tomorow if it is!
Thanks in advance folks =)
Looks good. Have know idea what a Pip-Boy is.
Strongly recommend you watch Simplify3D tutorial videos to get the most out of the software.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/
The Pip-Boy is a wrist-mounted computer system used by Vault-tech employees in the popular Fallout videogames.
With the release of Fallout 4 Bethseda (the studio that makes most of fallout games) was offering Pip-Boys. But they didnt make nearly enough of them, and they were $300. The game has an app to use on smart phone that links with the game, so you can use your Pip-Boy game function on an actual one your wearing.
I didnt get one but would LOVE to have one!!
look on thingiverse - far as I know it's free :-)
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pip+boy&sa=
Hey guys I had a few questions, I looked around in this thread but i'm not exactly sure what to call this. I've had some issues when trying to remove my models, I have waited till they are completely cooled and I've tried removing them when the bed is still warm. The back of the print stays stuck on the heat bed and part of the model comes off. I calibrate before each print and still have this issue. This is ABS, does anyone think PET or Kapton would help? Or any suggestion as to why this could/would be happening? Thanks!
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Ugh, can't wait to get this thing delivered. Says it should be here tuesday.
I bought S3D in preparation. I'm using it with my Prusa i3 right, and it's night and day over the other slicers.
I got S3D pretty nailed down watching all the videos. Custom supports is a blessing, and the amount of control I have over the objects is way better than anything else I've used. I really like how you can program different settings for different layers.
I can take pics of the unboxing if we want updated pics for this thread. From what I've read there's been a few changes. It might be helpful for me to note them with pictures.
The bed temp is 110C
Awesome! Now if they would just let me verify e-mail there i could download it!
You just made my day bud...Im getting a Pip-Boy!!
Was also curious as to what file types this S3D yall talk about accepts. Im a hobbist at best, my only experiance is with Blender and a tiny bit with 3dMax. Was planing on using blender for redering most models...wondering if Im gonna need to convert file types. Blenders default output is .blend of course.
edit:
I think .obj is considered a native format for blender...I know Ive exported stuff in that format without issue at anyrate...