Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

yeah all the basic connections are the same.
Also quite a few I have no clue what they're used for.
And no I'm not dismantling Alexa any more. Well until I design the new heat bed mounting connectors anyway (to stop it wobbling about).
She's done and deserves a break :-)
Once I've sorted heatpad and psu I'll hook it all up.

As far as I know it doesn't have any firmware installed.

So it's not a quick or straightforward setup. Going to be easier to have the psu set up on a workbench with bits plugged into it while I'm buggering around with firmwares and the screen.
I'll want it all working before I actually install it on the frame :-)

Yep - the one with the coloured connectors.
Aliexpress won't let me pay for stuff.
Just won't accept my visa card. I have no idea where my mastercard is as I don't use it or carry it.
Have to dig it out for future purchases.
Webmoney wants a cell phone - don't have one of those either :-)
And for some reason they don't use paypal - so that's me scuppered.

So asked my mate to get the heat pad - he's bought stuff from alibaba which is the same company.
350mm silicon pad with 3m glue, 12v 270 watt - $40 delivered. can't argue with that. Around £31. Same thing over here is more than double the cost.

Just ordered psu from amazon. 600watts, 25 amps - £15 !
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Should do the job :-)
Buying psus for lighting is cheaper than buying for 3d printers. Even though they are the exact same type of psu.
Go figure.

So just struts, wheels and shafts left I believe. £155 paid out.
Definitely going to end up well under £300, without compromising on stuff either.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/QKMAAO...By/s-l1600.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MKS-Base-V...72.m2749.l2649

try that link.
(reads page)
Ah apparently it's supplied with marlin firmware.
So when I get the psu I should be able to fire screen and board up without any initial buggering around.
Still leaning toward smoothieware - as that's what they;re using on the tevo little monster. Which I'm essentially ripping off :-)

Going to stick heatsinks to those chips anyway (bought them gonna use them lol). Been building computers for 30 odd years - No such thing as too much cooling.

Oh and you were right about the negative z being why she was doing weird things. Knocked it back to -0.15 prints normal. Put it back to -0.2 - weirdness.

probably use one for motherboard cooling.
Everything on top of the BB, will eventually be covered/protected.
There are a bunch of connectors I have no idea what they do.
No idea where the z-probe/calibration connector goes.
Got to be some kind of spec sheet somewhere.

Any idea what the ones I've circled do ?
Attachment 10923

Ah ha- ame thing being sold on amazon.com has abunch of links to data sheets :-)
https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Contro.../dp/B015SKY19M
$99 - they're having a laugh !
:-)

Looks like i can power the board up with screen attache dwith the usb cable alone.
That makes life easier.
Can do that now !
brb

***

Attachment 10924

Touch screen bright and very responsive.
But can you spot the immediate problem ?
Yep it's all in chinese.
Can't find a language selection option either.
Picture/buttons are fairly self explanatory - but nothing suggesting language selection.
Probably have to load up english firmware, recall reading something about that somewhere.
Other than that - fairly impressed :-)
I mean, it does work !

Doesn't appear to read sd card or usb though.
have to go find that thing I read.

Osoyoo.com is the dogs bollocks :-)
Attachment 10925

Right next job - how do i tell the motherboard It's running a delta ?
Plus it looks like it's the screen/card reader that restarts the print after a power cut. Nothing to do with the board :-)
Icon bottom left - the 'continue' button.
To read from a usb stick you just set it to read from usb not sd.
Doesn't automatically switch to whichever is plugged in. But seconds to change over.
Now that is bloody useful !

So all these super expensive 3d printers that are boasting about power cut continuing. It's a £29 screen that's doing it lol

Just had a look and can't see anyway of plugging one of these into Alexa's board. Which is a shame, she'd look good in colour lol

Basically downloaded a file from here: http://osoyoo.com/2016/07/25/mks-tft-2-8-touch-screen/
Unzxipped to sd card. put sdcard into screen, rebooted screen with reboot button. Automatically updated to english firmware.
Took a couple of minutes.

It's got to get more complicated from here.
Also has auto levelling options. Now that would be cool if it just did it without all that buggering about.

So, yep you need one of these.
Also says you can add your own boot up graphics.
I will be playing with that !

Repetier host talks to it :-)
That said I currently have no clue how to get it to change board settings.
Have to read the manual I guess :-)

So where does that lurk ? Never managed to find one for alexa.
Or figure out how to change it, etc

Anyway suns out, not raining. Going to walk the dogs - that's plenty excitement for one afternoon ;-)

the screen firmware has configuration.txt. Changed a bunch of settings, re flashed.
Doesn't look any different and no ther way if testing. But should do the job.

Quote:

---

#--------------------------------------------------------------
#########Printer type setting############################
#mainboard firmware setting(marlin:1; repetier:2; smoothie:3)
>cfg_firmware_type:1

#machine setting (Normal:1; Delta:2)
>cfg_machine_type:2

#baud rate setting(1:9600;2:57600;3:115200;4:250000)
>cfg_baud_rate:4

#language (Simplified Chinese:1; traditional Chinese:2; English:3)
>cfg_language_type:3

#extruder number(one:1; dual:2)
>cfg_sprayer_counter:1

#whether has heated bed(YES:1; NO: 0)
>cfg_custom_bed_flag:1

#--------------------------------------------------------------------
########function settings#################################

#pause position (-1 is invalid; Z-axis is relative position)
>cfg_XPOS:-1
>cfg_YPOS:-1
>cfg_ZADD:10

#whether set machine auto-off after print finishes(auto-off:1; NO:0)
>cfg_print_finish_close_Machine:1

#the max target Temp of sprayer and heated bed
>cfg_max_sprayer_temperature:270
>cfg_max_hotbed_temperature:90

#the level signal of outage detection module PB1(low level:0; high level:1)
>cfg_PB0_PB1_Level:1

#the speed of filament replacing(mm/min)
>cfg_filament_change_speed:1200

#the length of filament replacing(mm)
>cfg_filament_change_step:5

#the min temperature of filament replacing
>cfg_filament_limit_temperature:200

#The command of auto leveling (G29 is available for Marlin.While G32 is for Repetier and Smoothieware)
>cfg_auto_leveling_cmd:G28;G29;

#The point number of manual leveling:(3,4,5 point available)
>cfg_point_number:4

#the coordinates of 5 point on manual leveling
>cfg_point1:50,50
>cfg_point2:180,50
>cfg_point3:180,180
>cfg_point4:50,180
>cfg_point5:150,150

#the moving speed of leveling(mm/min)
>cfg_leveling_z_speed:1500
>cfg_leveling_xy_speed:3000

#Breakpoints continued playing Z-axis error setting
>cfg_breakpoint_z_error:0.2

#wifi mode(AP:1; STA:2)
>cfg_wifi_mode:1

#wifi name and password
>cfg_wifi_ap_name:MKS_wifi
>cfg_wifi_key_code:makerbase

#Dynamic access IP
>cfg_ip_dhcp_flag:1

#IP/mask/gateway
>cfg_ip_address:192.168.3.100
>cfg_ip_mask:255.255.255.0
>cfg_ip_gate:192.168.3.1

#------------------------------------------------

##############Function customization####################

#user-defined function1 and 2.(whether display this button . disable: 0; enable: 1)
>cfg_function_btn1_display:1
>cfg_function_btn2_display:0

#command of user-defined function
>function_btn1_cmd:M84;
>function_btn2_cmd:M81;

#set number of "More" button
>moreitem_pic_cnt:0

#edit command for 1~7 "More" button,each command must be separated by semicolon ";"
>moreitem_button1_cmd:G28 X0;

>moreitem_button2_cmd:G28 X0;

>moreitem_button3_cmd:G28 Y0;

>moreitem_button4_cmd:G28 Y0;

>moreitem_button5_cmd:G28 Z0;

>moreitem_button6_cmd:G28 Z0;

>moreitem_button7_cmd:G28;

#how many "More" button show on screen interface
>morefunc_cnt:0

#command setting on button1~6
>morefunc1_cmd:G28;
>morefunc2_cmd:G28;
>morefunc3_cmd:G28;
>morefunc4_cmd:G28;
>morefunc5_cmd:G28;
>morefunc6_cmd:G28;

#---------------------------------------------------
##Display customization(button and logo customized see User's Manual)####

#the color of screen background
>cfg_background_color:0x000000

#the color of title text
>cfg_title_color:0xFFFFFF

#the color of temperature,fan,(etc) background
>cfg_state_background_color:0x000000

#the color of temprature,fan,(etc) text
>cfg_state_text_color:0xFFFFFF

#the color of file button
>cfg_filename_background_color:0x000000

#the color of file text
>cfg_filename_color:0xFFFFFF

#the color of background in printing
>cfg_printingstat_word_background_color:0x000000

#the color of text in printing status
>cfg_printingstat_word_color:0xFFFFFF

#3D effects setting (disable: 0; enable: 1)
>cfg_BUTTON_3D_effects:0

---

Some interesting options.

just enabled 3d effects - curious to see what that does.

Definitely not messing about with Alexa. Learnt many years ago that once a thing works - stop messing with it.

Wasn't uncommon on the old days for me to fix a computer and just do one last thing - which buggered it up.
So now if what i have works the way I want it to and does what it should. Leave it well alone.
One reason I absolutely will not let microsoft dump whatever crap they like on my computers.

Might clone the harddrive and do all the stupid updates at some point to see if I can get s3d 4.0 working.
No joy so far.

I'll mess with the new board. As if that gets totally buggered up - it's no big deal. Just £25 up the swanney, rather than a dead printer.
If Alexa gets messed up - I'll cry !
lol

I'm curious to see what differences there are in the display and control options with different firmwares. And I know this board is compatible with marlin, repetier and smoothieware. You have all three options in the configuration file.
Saw something yesterday that recommends swapping marlin - apparently old version - the board comes with for the latest smoothieware.
So sometime over the weekend I'll give that a go.
I know it's the screen that does the continue print after power failure. So no matter what I'll keep that.

What I don't know - is which socket I plug the z probe into for auto calibration.
Going to have three spare endstop sockets as I've got two for each motor. Can't see anything else that I could use. So probably the z- one I'm thinking. The top of the machine is z + (I think).
That's easy to test with repetier host anyway. Hold the swith in send the command. Tells you if it's found it.

Psu just arrived.
Sucker is rated for 50 amps and 600 watts !
Big cooling fan.
Other than that, identical type to the he3ed one.
£15 delivered :-)
Plenty of mounting holes too.
inline switch not getting here till monday most likely. So until I can make the switchable power cable. I'll leave it alone :-)
Uk based supplier - so actually send backable of it dies.
Feels really solid.

Looks like it could easily power a 400mm heatpad too, hmm. lol
So if anyones looking to buy a psu for a 3d printer build - look at led lighting psu's NOT 3d printer psu's. Same thing but much better prices and specifications :-)

I may be wrong but Smoothieware is only for 32-bit ARM CPUs and that mobo has only MEGA2560... would need either Smoothieboard or Re-ARM for RAMPS (and the RAMPS board of course). Repetier on the other hand should work fine. I've been meaning to try Repetier firmware for a long time, but there's always something else on to-do my list :). Also Marlin does work well, with auto bed leveling etc. so there's not much reason to switch, only curiosity...