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Okay just tried to use 3 Point, and it only goes to the first point and stops there. here is the whole marlin 1.1.5 https://www.dropbox.com/s/oac2zq740d...point.zip?dl=0
and the configuration.h
https://www.dropbox.com/s/psqwaxpqvs...uration.h?dl=0
Like I said, really holding my patience, giving this thing until end of this week. If not, just either gonna leave it, or spend the extra money and hire someone to do it LOL and work on the Hypercube Evolution instead.
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Oh no I know how to calculate that, it's just that the funny thing is even though it should be +y, when I do G1 Y-35, The nozzle tips moves from x0 y0 to exactly where the probe is. Hmm weird, I'm hearing conflicting opinions, there are people telling me that G33 is better than G29.
EDIT: Y-35 not X-35
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And you wonder why I've never bothered to get into this aspect of levelling :-)
If it doesn't have bed capable of being levelled manually and auto levelling isn't actually in any way shape or form automatic - avoid it lol
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Yeah you got that right, well at least I still have the He3D that you told me to get. I'm posting on both the facebook group and Marlin group to get help and see if they can figure it out. There is a way to manually level the bed for the Anycubic, just have to 3d print it, which I may try. as a last resort. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2252569
EDIT: Should I just try that manually leveling 3d printed instead of keep trying to solve the ABL issues? I'm just waiting for my PETG to arrive, was gonna use ABS as it apparently have higher heat resistance, but apparently since I don't really print ABS, only PLA or PETG or flex or wood, don't need that high temp and PETG (which is around 80 c heat resistance is more than enough.
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pet-g has HIGHER heat resistance than abs. And prints pretty easy.
You did get the heated bed for the k200 ? Otherwise you're just as stuffed as with the anycubic :-)
I use my z-stop switch adaptor and a screwdriver to level the bed. That and minor z adjustment in simplify3d - works and is really simple.
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I think there's something wrong with my printer itself, even after both G33 calibrations and G29 using UBL and activated, the nozzle is still hitting the bed on one end and way higher on the other end.
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How do you clear the eeprom, isn't it M502?
Yes, G1 Y-35 move the nozzle tip between the X and Y tower, but to where the probe tip was exactly.
I did something similar to what you did with the G92 and G30 ish before I moved onto G33 P1, and the results were pretty much the same. -2.4 is a good one.
I think the most important part right now is to definitely try to clear the eeprom, I thought M502 is to clear it but maybe not?
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Oh no the X tower is at the back, the Y tower is on the left while the Z tower is on the right. that is if you look at this video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ywsuba9kxn...19.34.mp4?dl=0
So M502 is clearing the eeprom, I do that everytime I flash the firmware. maybe printing those manual knobs really is the only way to go...
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Oh you're talking about the G29 using 3 point. I set the points properly, but then it move to the first point, doesn't even probe it and just stops. Right now trying out UBL but it didn't work either. Here is the weird thing. Here is what the mesh said after the G29 UBL (Unified Bed Leveling):
17:13:10.568 : . . . 1.694 0.402 0.219 0.327 0.720 . . .
17:13:10.568 :
17:13:10.738 : . . 0.524 0.053 0.032 0.099 0.094 0.190 0.334 . .
17:13:10.738 :
17:13:10.909 : . 0.120 0.001 0.010 0.012 0.010 0.062 0.080 0.062 0.108 .
17:13:10.909 :
17:13:11.079 : . -0.003 -0.002 0.034 0.035 0.013 0.035 0.010 -0.036 -0.036 .
17:13:11.080 :
17:13:11.277 : 0.081 0.025 0.034 0.036 0.075 0.007 -0.015 -0.015 [-0.015] .
17:13:11.277 :
17:13:11.447 : . 0.140 0.109 0.061 0.082 0.095 0.059 0.035 0.058 -0.010 .
17:13:11.447 :
17:13:11.618 : . 0.179 0.119 0.075 0.077 0.061 0.073 0.086 0.067 -0.007 .
17:13:11.618 :
17:13:11.789 : . . 0.100 0.054 0.060 0.045 0.168 0.115 0.067 . .
17:13:11.789 :
17:13:11.959 : . . . . . -0.018 . . . . .
17:13:11.983 : (-114,-114)
Something is wrong on the top left of the bed, a whole 1mm difference?
I know I'm asking this again, but maybe I should print out those manual leveling knobs and try to level that way?
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Oh and see if they are 90 degrees? No need, I can tell you right now they are NOT, do they need to be? guess if I'm going to do leveling knobs they shouldbe, since ABL/UBL isn't working for some reason on that.
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Okay then, guess I will print out the manually level knobs and make it so the bed is 90 to the towers on all 3 sides, once my PETG arrives >.>
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well it's not too far off, more like 89 degrees or 88 possibly.
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I did from the 1.1.4 version to 1.1.5. Here's the weird thing. I went back to 1.1.4 again, and did the same thing, the results seem to be better in 1.1.4 than in 1.1.5, however still not leveled, but better after G33 P7. However, I feel like the G29 I did isn't being applied, because i checked the movement of the nozzle before G29 and again after G29 with M420 S1, there is no difference. So I'm at a loss here. Tested using Bilinear haven't had time to try UBL yet.
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Okay so a new video came out, and it looks like I'm not the only one with this problem, it seems to be just the Linear Rails version. Here's the vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e3UXj5ly3U According to him, the machines rods might not be all the same, and according to one of the comments, the reason for me getting higher points values at one point seems to be the effector tilting at certain points on the bed, causing it to suddenly go higher (which is exactly the problem I have) and therefore G29 or such isn't able to compensate for that. Am going o try EZbed, but it looks like manual knob leveling (I know I've said it multiple times, but now I'm almost 100% certain I need to go that way) really is the way to go. Any good knob leveling? I'm using the one provided by Homofaciens who did something similar on his Anycubic kossel but the pulley version.
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I got my Ezbed and the limit switch needed. 30 minutes of me noob trying to solder the wires xD, and then putting the bracket and the program... Wow.... It's not perfect, and I feel Like I may have found the reason why. The Bltouch bracket cause I haven't removed it yet, I found that at a certain point when the EZbed was working, the rod was slightly bumping into the mount, it wasn't enough to cause a huge sound, but I was very close to it at the time, and I noticed it, I wonder if that is the reason why that I was getting such a huge jump in the level numbers (when I was using the BLtouch).
Nevertheless, just.... wow... I need to remove the BLtouch mount and do it again, but... less than 1 hour of work and leveling all together... I am speechless...
It looks like the point in the bottom right of the pictures the nozzle is just slightly squishing the PLA? not too sure though, but my god at least it sticks now, more testing needed, but yes for those who are seriously having trouble leveling this, I strongly suggest Ezbed, as I've said, if you look through my post, I've spent over 40+ hours just trying to MANUAL level it and then BLtouch programming, and then this just works. Granted, I can't change the encoder settings, but by golly. Yes I'm repeating so much but I am just so happy right now (fingers crossed).
again, are those parts where the nozzle is too close and overextrusion? can't really tell...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2h6vs36ggri8ak7/2017-09-22%2023.25.16.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/59dmzsigzh...25.41.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6zvjzwjt46...25.34.jpg?dl=0
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you're not going to get much better than that at 85mm/s
Good job :-)
Try it wothout the brim. You'll most likely need to slow the first layer down a bit (10% at 85 should work).
Unless the print has a really tiny base, you should never need to use a raft or brim.
Can't see any issues at all.
That ezbed setup looks pretty good.
So you buy the software and just make a z-stop sensor. Well I've already got one of those :-)
That software setup is exactly what all deltas should ship with !
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Yeah it's really nice, just too bad can't change certain settings, the z-stop you need the exact type or similar types. There is an actual facebook group for this Ezbed, he's currently working on a 1.1.4 version. Be warned though, certain antivirus will think it's a virus also once you buy it, you need to send him your Machine ID which the exe file it comes with will tell you, you email it to him and they give you the registration name and key within 24 hours. It does sound fishy, but over 300+ people have it and no one seems to be complaining, of course, out of safety, I installed it on my old laptop that I barely use, so if anything does happen, nothing important will be stole. It works excellent though
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so another problem popped up. I finally decided to do a calibration cube on my Linear Plus, and then here's what happened. Y and Z axis are okay, but the X oomph. However, I cannot get into the firmware because i"m using the EZbed system, so is there another way to fix this problem? Thanks.
https://i.imgur.com/WnVII2Ul.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HZh51BLl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w6x3cxyl.jpg
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The x axis is the best of the lot. 1 10th of a mm out. The other 2 are 2 & 4 10th's of a mm out.
not bad. Try changing print temp and speed. Tolearances that small, can be down to tiny issues. Even how hard you squeeze the digital calipers.