cool Yes Id love to show you everything in person! ... emailing you now
Printable View
GOOD NEWS EVERYBODY!
I've converted the PCB to Kicad, for anyone who would rather use that then eagle. (I have kicad installed, and would rather not have to have eagle installed as well)
https://github.com/oninoshiko/peachyprinter-pcb
This repo ONLY has the mini-1.14 version, which I believe is the version Peachy was preparing to ship. I'm still working on cleaning it up a little, so, YMMV.
EDIT: I've got it down to 5 ERC errors... (I'm not really sure about fixing these, so I'm leaving them for now. When/if I have some free time, I'll revist that cleanup)
EDIT 2: Hey @rylangrayston, can we get an offical license for these? There isn't one there, so my repo is probibly (technicaly) violating your copyright.
I totally read that in Professor Farnswort's voice.
Now that the board is progressing, the only component I personally need are the mirrors. I can probably source everything else locally.
@rylangrayston I am sure you tested numerous mirrors, which company produced the ones you have now?
I will gladly pay for postage if you can pop 2 sets of mirrors into an envelope and send them to me. 😆
I have a little Question abou the printing itself .
On earlyer video's i saw oszilated lines from the laser .. like a full picture at once .. in the last one i think i see just a wandering point (more like the extruder type of printing , the movement i mean)
Is my observation corect ? does the galvo just have to make slow movements ?
How do you download from The Github repositories? Other github repositories I've used had a "download files" button and signing up appears to create a new repository.
I've been copy & pasting from the RAW text view into notepad but this is getting tedious fast!
Please enlighten this Git nub.
Install git then git clone the files.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+use+git
:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
The resin needs to be exposed to UV light "X" amount of time to set. You can do that in 2 ways: quick repeated passes (so you would actually see it as lines, not a dot) or slowly so it only needs a single pass... Total amount of exposure time required remains the same in both options!
The latter allows for more accuracy...
Which one would you prefer? ;)
But with a more powerful diode it should be possible to speed up the laser to the limit of the accuracy of the galvo system. There might be hard chemical/physical limits to the curing speed though so it might be that adding more light won't make it cure any faster beyond a certain point.
True, but it also increases the risk of UV light bleeding through in to deeper layers and curing deeper/more than intended...
So it's a balancing act really and their original goal of a less than $100 printer also set some limits... ;)
I was thinking about that and ideally I would think you would want a system to maintain the resin layer depth at the desired thickness of each layer and then have the laser intentionally cure it all the way through.
Not really, since the amount of resin used will not be constant, so you'd need a way of measuring that, and that is ignoring viscosity and flow rate challenges...
This system works because the cured layer will absorb the UV so lower layers can't be accidentally cured along. But when the UV light gets more intense that may not be the case anymore!
You wouldn't need to measure the amount of resin used just the thickness of the layer above the saline and if it's not enough, add more. If the interface wasn't moving this would actually be quite easy to do using a variation of the old auto refilling dog bowl trick and some clever pneumatic valves.
Viscosity and flowrate remain a problem in your scenario, the idea behind the thick layer of resin is to provide a bit of a buffer so that the resin can fill the gaps quick enough! With a layer of less than 1mm the surface tension would be a problem and might even lead to pearls of resin floating on top of the water due to hydrophobic behavior!...
@Rylan
The structural parts were laser cut from "ABS", correct?
Did you experiment with Acrylic? Did it work?
Apparently, laser cutting ABS produces Hydrogen Cyanide...sooooo, my local maker space will not allow it to be used even though it is well vented. Can't say I blame them!
Acrylic is a safe plastic to laser cut.
I got to test out the cutter tonight and I cut a few parts. Just need to review to assembly instructions to test them out. :-)
@thej, it should work assuming you have a sheet at approx the right thickness (I think I had measured it at approx 3mm thick), and the gasses released are part of the issue with the FFF printers and abs also
Can you provide some reference to this or elaborate? It isn't a very scientific explanation.
Will a more powerful laser need less time?
Is it irrelevant the laser power because the curing time only depends on the resin?
Why does a single pass offer more accuracy? Its counter intuitive for me, could you elaborate?
It is all about inertia and inertial dampening...
Slower means the mirrors need to move less, and not as fast. For a magnetically activated *and* dampened system that certainly makes a difference.
Compare it to a car: can you make a tight turn better at 5MPH or 50MPH?
I'm still trying to find the most current version of the structural pieces in the git repository.
I printed the "all.dxf" file on the laser cutter last night and when I compared them to the assembly animation Rylan posted (page 3 of this thread), they are NOT the same!! These are possibly the "oil dampened version" as discussed in this thread.
In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_production/" these files here appear to be the scanner.
In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_printer/ there is a collection of SMC files that COULD be the right files but I can't open them to verify.
I know these SMC files were created by the Laser Cutter's software but what is that software and can I download it?? (Ok, Duh, it's "SmartCarve")
Are there DXF versions of these files somewhere?
Has someone found the most current files?
The laser cutter at my local MakerSpace uses RD Works (I'll be getting a copy soon). This outputs RDL files not SMC. I can not open them with RD Works :-(
help
Hey there, that repo is all old stuff, you want this one: https://github.com/PeachyPrinter/pea...terhardware1.0
Totally threw me for a loop at first to!
MOST of the items have .scad files for them. This is a format used by OpenSCAD, it's really just a text file containing a script that defines the object. I'm not sure about converting this to RD Works, I do know that it can output at least a .stl file.
Thanks! I dug through those files before but I really didn't know what I was doing yet ! I will check them out again :-)
RD Works will take a DXF so converting the SCAD models to DXF will work just fine.
J
The galvo works with an electro-magnet, a well modelled system can take that into account and compensate the inertia. Am I wrong? Certainly for faster speeds it gets tricky but looking at the current state it just looks way too slow. If the resin curing speed is not the issue then at least a 2x speed increase would be great if possible.
Please read carefully what I typed before: it is a combination of factors: cost (laser diode prices increase substantially as they become more powerful, goal was a sub C$100 printer), curing time (the resin curetime is the main determining factor) and accuracy (if it takes x seconds to cure a layer either way, move slower as it increases accuracy)...
Is there a datasheet for the resin?
You also need to concern yourself with the specific gravity, as it does have to float on the the saline.
You'd probably want to contact makerjuce for that kind of info, as they were the ones making the peachy resin.
https://www.makerjuice.com/pages/contact-us
Can't speak to what was used with the later stuff, but for the beta users it was "PeachyJuice Stiff or MakerJuice SubG/SubG+ resin". I got Stiff in the beta shipment.
You can search the internet for the Makerjuice SubG/SubG+ MSDS sheets - what I just tried is a little different but I can't seem to upload it due to the file size (197 kb). probably not current anyway, it was from 2014.
Can I please have some advise/help with the files on github. I am unable to find all of the parts of the peachy printer because some are only in .smc format. I plan to laser cut the parts out. The parts I can't find are the legs and the T shaped chassis/frame. It would be greatly appreciated if someone can offer some assistance.
Acrylic works and its is what we original planed to make printers with.. abs is better because acrylic often breaks on the fine snap fit tabs, but it still works
and a bit of hot glue can solve any problems you have with it. I think that 1/8 inch birch plywood would also work and so would petg. petg would be the strongest.
We have been doing the parts in 3mm thick plastic but because we designed in openScad it should be relatively easy to cut parts from other thicknesses
try playing with the SheetThickness variable in the openSCad files.
Sorry Im not in here answering more questions right now.. Im in the middle of moving, so I spending lots of time boxing and cleaning, loading trucks etc.