Get a speed square to double check.
Remember, just because your paranoid, it doesn't mean they are not following you, or in your case, slanting when your not looking. ;-)
Printable View
Get a speed square to double check.
Remember, just because your paranoid, it doesn't mean they are not following you, or in your case, slanting when your not looking. ;-)
I'm still not entirely sure. I used my angle ruler thingy (it's a weird looking bit of kit) and I still can't say for certain if it's actually slanted.
Oh yeah and the flashforge decided it wasn't going to print last night.
But for not tall stuff alexa is fine:
Attachment 11318
Well I'm still not sure if there is an issue with alexa or not.
If there is it seems to be proportional to the layer height.
ie: if \i print at a lower layer height, there is no discernible slant - and none on small items anyway.
The larger the layer height the greater the potential for slant - but again not on small items.
Oh yeah and I've got extrusion issues on the flashforge now. So have to dismantle the extruder tonight.
Stuff feeds and loads, but almost nothing comes out on a print.
No rest for the wicked.
I have booked my tickets to mallorca for this years international slinging event - so need to print a bunch of flexible sling pouches. Also want to make a printable template for my leather sling pouches.
It's all fun :-)
Just knocked out a 100mm statue of ganesha at 0.24 layer height (try to keep it in multiples of 8, the stepper motors prefer it apparently).
Bang on - zero signs of any issue.
I mean none - got a hindu mate who's just bought a new house so thought I'd make him a ganesh :-)
It's as clean and smooth and shiny as any print you'd see.
Meanwhile I can find nothing wrong with the flashforge's extruder. If I feed from the control panel it extrudes a straight piece of filament with no problems. So the nozzle hasn't got an issue.
But when i go to print, it just grinds to a halt about halfway through the first layer.
Am I in the twilight zone ?
Right going to try a ganesh in wood now.
You can never have too many elephant headed god statues :-)
So Alexa seems to be ok at 0.24, but when does it start the slant? What if you just use the multiples of 8 at a thicker layer, say 0.48, is that an issue. This is a strange one.
On your flashforge, could the heater be weak? i.e. what would happen if you feed say 100 mm of filament. Will it work ok? Seems to me you can overrun the heating ability if the feed is too fast for too long.
yep, I can feed as much as I like, temps are stable.
The tubes I added to the extruder are fine, nothing's getting stuck on them.
Plus it's doing it on both normal pla and flexible pla.
I've fettled around with the bed levelling and z gaps - it's not that.
different models, etc
Could it be somethig to do with the steper motor at slower speeds. Dunno.
It's annoying as I could do with having it working at the moment.
Off to the world slinging international in a couple of weeks and I want to take a load of flexible plastic pouches with me.
Guess I ought to just buy printbite for the knp, mod the extruders and start using that more.
Currently printing a 2 part 'thing' (one of my inventions I sell - so no, I'm not telling you what it is :-) - doing both parts at once - no problems.
One is about 30mm tall - still on 0.24.
It's fine.
I'll try a glande mould tomorrow at the same resolution. Which is kind of annoying as you gain nothing by printing these at anything but the thickest layer you can.
But I'll try it.
And if that comes out fine - I'll print the i3 parts.
Oh yeah I've upped my retraction to 3mm - still at 70mm/s. Absolutely zero stringing and I kept the parts really close to test it.
This is an interesting read on print slant. Long story short, it was his belts. http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,731246,page=1
well I'm over halfway through the i3 parts and no issue so far.
Attachment 11350
Attachment 11351
Belts are tight. Also bear in mind I have two belt tensioners on each belt - so all three are at the exact same tension.
Even if the belts did stretch, the tensioners would take up any slack and you would have a visual indication as the arms on the tensioners closed.
Printed a big mould set last night. 0.4mm layer height, 100mm/s - came out perfect. Did it in clear pla - which can be tricky. No problem.
New retraction settings give me completely string free multiple prints. 3mm at 70mm/s (I think - I'll check when I'm back on the workshop computer).
So it seems to have sorted itself - weird, but good.
Glad it is sorted out. I will need to check my settings. I THINK it is about the same
Just confirmed, my retraction is 4mm @ 70mm/s
3 seems fine for me.
so after something of a break, I'm back on the big bastard.
What caused the hiatus was cutting 6mm threads in the ends of the aluminium extrusion.
I had been using the thread cutters in my drill. But stopped after stripping threads in one hole and completely jamming the threads in the cutter. Fortunately It didn't strip all the way down, so I've added a bit more length by hand and it'll just need a slightly longer bolt. My mate did drop off some 8mm cutters as well - but don't think they'll be needed after all.
My mate dropped his manual cutter holder off last week - so much easier to use. Have now done all three uprights, and just need to dismantle the prototype base/top and do the three short struts in that. I've remodelled the corner pieces with bolt holes, and tested.
Makes a super rigid structure.
Added the cross piece for the belt cog/holder/spinny thing (can't remember what it's called at the moment).
Also made the corner pieces a bit wider so the edges of the build plate line up with the slot in the extrusion.
I've left a wide gap for the bottom belt holders, so once I've got the stepper motor mounting where I want it on the top. I'll probably make some spacers to stop the thing moving horizontally. With a 1.5 metre height, I think it needs less opportunity for movement than on the k200, where tension is the only thing that keeps it in place.
Once I've got everything threaded, I'll knock up some feet and put the frame together. That'll be interesting. Give me some real idea just how big it is and where It can live :-)
At that point I can also finish the bed and work out wiring.
Still need to design the effector - seen some interesting magnetic ones with angled holders for the ball bearings. Also need to add the belt holder and arm holders (magnetic again) to the carriages.
Had a quick check and the arms are more than long enough - no matter what else I do. They'll need to be cut to size. But that's supposed to be fairly easy with a fine toothed hacksaw and i do have a disc sander for fine adjustment.
I'd quite like to get to the point where I'm tearing my hair out with the settings and configuration for smoothieware in the next month or so.
More as it happens :-)
Glad to see you are back at it. Cant wait for some more progress and pictures.
not going to be quick - each corner piece is now up to about 5 hours printing. 127gms.
so i can get 7 and a bit from a reel of filament.
If I take infill from 25% to 20% - I can get 8.
(quick slice) plus looks good.
I'll do that for the rest :-)
Took me a while to get the settings right for a perfect print.
Ended up with 75mm/s, 0.3 layer, 5% for first layer and a fair bit of smoosh.
Fan off till layer 3, 210 print temp and 50c bed temp.
They're almost edge to edge on the print bed. Big solid suckers.
Sticking with the flashforge red, which does have a very slight tendency to warp at the edges on large prints.
2 got scrapped and 2 I could file enough to get a very tight fit (mallet job).
last night's, with the above settings, was perfect :-)
Just started another one with the remnants of the previous roll of filament - not sure if there's enough. Chancing it anyway :-)
even if I don't get full height, as long as the bolt holes are there, should be enough for a test fitting.
Given how tight the sockets are for the horizontal struts and how solid the bolts hold them. There actually isn't any point in the strut nuts at the sides as well.
Once I've got 3 good ones I'll check I've enlarged them enough. And if not - start again lol
so put most of the frame together for the first time last night.
I'm beginning to think building a printer I have to stand on a chair to do the electronics - maybe wasn't such a good idea after all :-)
Attachment 11404
And then this happened:
Attachment 11405
Still got two crosspieces to go. Annoyingly it snapped as I was unscrewing. The thread is cut.
Hoping either my mate or the aluminium engineering firm I do work for, can drill it out.
But it's hardened steel. Not sure how well it'll drill.
These things are sent to try us :-)
Marked out and drilled prinbed today. Then decided might as well attach printbite. Keeps it safe and flat. I'll wait to attach the silicon heatpad till I'm messing about with the board and motors and the like. Keep it protected till I need it.
Attachment 11413
Corner piece with belt pulley and prototype carriage - purely for getting wheel spacing correct.
Attachment 11414
Not really a desktop printer ;-)
Attachment 11415
I know what you're thinking. 'Those bolt holes don't line up with the grooves in the struts.
Nope, were never meant to.
The bed will be mounted on 5mm bolts, that will be spring loaded and attached to very solid bases that will bolt directly into the struts.
This will give me more versatility in levelling and should keep the plastic mounts cool even with very long print runs (which is what this monster is for).
Right off to design feet :-)
OH yeah, ordered 5 metres of 3mm bungee cord for a different project and then thought. That would be ideal for suspending the flying extruder. As it's not rubber, shouldn't rot and will be real easy to attach. Figure push measured amount through 2.5mm hole, and fix in place with small cable tie.
That some big b*... What are the dimensions? Sorry to see the broken tap. Did you get it out yet? Are you using oil when threading?
Oil ? Nobody mentioned oil to me - bugger :-(
makes sense, but dave never mentioned it - it's all his threading kit, so it must be his fault lol
He knows I don't do much metal working.
Guess that's the difference between brute strength and ignorance and brute strength and proper practice. Unfortunately I was using the former.
I will oil in future lol
Got lithium grease and 3 in-1 oil in here with me. Just never occured to me.
The vertical struts are 1.5 metres tall, the frame struts 420mm
aluminium bed is 380mm diameter, printbite 350mm.
I figure I'll get at least 1.2 metres printable height.
Currently making feet from sienoc flexible pla. Essentially identical to polyflex - but half the price !
prints great from Alexa.
25mm/s print speed for flexible filament on a bowden tube :-)
Plus you can run the first layer at 100% - so actually prints stuff pretty quick.
Got to do one at a time though, one thing flexible pla is really really good at is stringing. Can't be avoided so you try not to give it the chance.
I reckon this stuff is what spiderman's webbing is made of :-)
I'm going to drop into my aluminium engineering mates tomorrow and see what they can do. Hoping they'll drill it out and offer to finish the threading as well. Fingers crossed :-)
Best if they can finish it. Maybe a pint or two at the pub. Anyway, cutting oil, go slow, and back out often to clear debris. More oil. I don't do it often, but that's what works for me. Excited to see you working on it again. Definitely not DESKTOP.
I'm ready to try some flex filament.
Do you worry about moisture in your filament? Do anything to remedy it?
Can't say enough good things about PrintBite. I still smile when the print just pops off. Thanks for that pointer.
alas I showed darren and he said 'you need an engineering firm for that'.
Apparently even though it says engineering in their frim title - they don't have any of the right gear.
Don't even have a clamp for their pillar drill that will hold it in place.
His idea was a centre punch and a big hammer.
So I passed :-)
So I think I might, knock the bit off that's sticking out of the hole with a hammer and figure out some way to clamp it so i can have a go with my pillar drill (change it to it's slowest speed) and a titanium nitride coated drill bit.
Logical - to my way of thinking - would be to start with a very small drill and work my way up.
Failing that, every time I see these things on a shopping channel I'm tempted to buy them: https://www.drillallsales.com/
probably not as good as they claim. But I only want it for the one job :-)
Bugger it - bought a 4.5mm bit. If I hurt it, they say they'll send me another one. So we'll see :-)
Figure at £5.99 it's worth a punt. Cheaper than postage would be on another strut anyway.
I reckon I can clamp the strut in my workbench and put the drill on that with the head offset .
Should be fun lol
I'll have another go at cleaning the aluminium out of the grooves of the other two threading bits and use oil :-)
Oh yeah my big laser engraver arrived yesterday. 30x40cm. Has a sort of user manual, but no build instructions or links to software, instructions etc.
On the postiive side. There was no customs form or value on the parcel, so no import tax. I think it's been shipped to the uk in a container, massively undervalued and then delivered with hermes - a budget uk delivery firm who clearly don't ask daft questions like: 'you pay import tax on this? '.
So that's good :-)
Did find a build video on youtube which looks like the same kit. Very strange way of using the belts to move stuff. Not something I would ever have worked out for myself in a million years.
What I really need is work, running out of money :-(
I do have a shed full of tropical hardwood (that's not an exaggeration) and a bunch of woodworking gear. So custom engraved plaques, mats coasters etc are definitely in the future.
I hope you get some work. Need that money to pay essentials, then a few toys. Are you skilled in woodworking, kool if you are. Good money in that. Also consider cabinet making.
Back to the broken tap. Consider reverse left hand drills bits. They will provide some torque to help remove the tap as you are drilling. Yes, you instinct is correct. Start with making a small flat spot on the break as close to the center as you can. Then take a sharp punch to make a small indentation to hold the drill bit from wondering. Then us a small bit to drill a hole and work you way up. Use that cutting oil to keep your bit sharp. If you use easy-outs, be careful as that have a habit of snapping also. Good luck.
3mm bungee cord arrived today.
Going to be perfect for the suspended extruder.
I still don't know why it needs to be elasticated. But as every suspended large delta I've seen has an extrduer suspended by elasticat material. I guess it's been tested and proven a good idea.
Even more reason I think to beef up the belts as th extruer bouncing around has to put extra stress on the carriages and belts.
You'd think anyway.
Currently waiting for 50 tennis balls to arrive so I can go test my new slinging target.
Also invented a tennis ball picker upperer.
The flexible tennis ball valve was printed with flexible pla on the he3d k200.
http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1523898343
Think the flexbile socket brackets were done partly on the he3d and partly on the flashforge before it got ill.
So CA, how is your BB going? We need a progress report. ;-)
haven't got round to buying a new horizontal strut yet. Currently spending most time on the laser engraving.
Also come to the conclusion that I need to buy pre-threaded struts.
Plus it's bloody hot in my workshop.
:-)
It's not abandoned - i could really have done with it for a mini-itx case that I've had to break down into 4 parts.
Plus money's been tight recently as well.
I need to get moving on the struts - probably need 2.
it's 28c in my workshop and even with a big fan blowing on me - there's only so much you can take lol
CA, are you still working on BB? Any progress?
CA, Any hard lessons I should learn from you BB adventure. I am thinking of building a 300 mm build plate diameter delta ( not quite as tall at yours.)
yes - get the aluminium extrusion pre - threaded by the suppliers.
The build kind of ground to a halt when i broke the threading bit.
Then maneged to strip the threads on another strut and ran out of money to get new - pre threaded struts.
Plus since then I've been messing about with the ctc 13 pro b.
Not fully operational yet - as the print bed isn't actually affixed to the print frame in any useful or solid way (how it's designed). Basically if you move the printer - at all, it goes out of calibration. I'm going to bolt the whole thing to a rigid aluminium base - which will sort that issue out.
So still learning stuff that will all go into the BB when I recommence it's build.
What i would say is make your build plate larger.
The extra cost is minimal, and a 350mm round plate will accomodate a 250mm square. I know this as I spotted the files recently :-)
Once I've eventually got the top and bottom frames made the rest should be pretty quick.
I've got all the bits, even some 3mm bungee cord for the suspended extruder.
I keep seeing ideas at printer show I can incorporate :-)
Given how cheap a large format printer can now be had - the original idea behind the bb is probably not going to work. So it's been relegated to a hobby build.
Quick update on the he3d k200.
After a brief halt last year when the hotend ptfe tune broke in situ - still no idea how that happened. And a wee bit of hassle replacing it - she's now back to full working order and still my workhorse machine.
Plus I now have a lot of ptfe tubing for the future :-)
And given how many moulds she's knocked out, I do believe she's actually paid for herself now as well :-)
She's Still on original board and firmware, hotend and extruder - why change what works so well ?
Pretty much all the problems I see on the facebook groups are from people who have changed stuff - for no logical reason I can see - and have caused their own problems.
I did have adhesion issues with the printbite - but have now upped the bed temp to 65c - and it's sticking better than ever.
One thing I love is that she gets to temp reasonably quick - but once there the temps are nailed down. I might get a few tenths of a degree wobble on the extruder, but the bed temp is ALWAYS rock solid.
Just goes to show if you take the time to set a cheap printyer up properly and make the right mods - it#ll pay you back in spades :-)
Thanks CA. Yeah, Still love the K200. Its printing like a champ. I wonder why so many folks don't like it. Probably can set it up correctly. I had gotten a clone E3D a while back ( like last year ) and designed / modified the effector to use it, dual part cooling fans and optical sensor probe. Waited a long time to install, but finally had a major molten blob on my print head, so the opportunity presented itself. I have to say, there is marginal improvement vs the stock setup. I do like the auto probing / distortion correction. Need ( well could use) a few improvements to my design but over all, i'm happy. Finally re-tried PETG ( was not happy with original results last year, but now I have it dialed in. TPU is next.
Yeah, the bigger delta build is a hobby type build, I just wanted a bigger build surface area. Your recommended 350mm is huge. I love watching the delta do its think. Mesmerizing. I may just take the easy rout and get a Creality CR-10 or Tevo Tornado. Build are I want, Good price, large support group. I keep hearing the Borg say "you will be assimilated; resistance is futile" Ehhh, whats the fun in that.
Wonder whats up with your PrintBite. Mine is still working great, even at 50*, but you use it more than me. Wonder if it eventually goes bad. May want to contact the manufacturer. I still highly recommend it, thanks for pointing me to it.
well I suspect the printbite issues were as much climate and cheap pla related as anything else.
Just run through a roll of black esun pla that came with the klic-n-print. Switched back to some flashforge red yesterday, printed a cooling nozzle for the ctc - wow, that stuck about twice as hard as the esun !
350 does look huge. But like i said, it's a 250mm square with added rounded corners. Doesn't cost any more, so why not :-)
just changed my nozzle, I believe this is the 3rd 0.5mm !
They are dirt cheap brass - so I don't expect them to last forever. They're averaging about 1,75km a nozzle. Which doesn't seem unreasonable.
Not bad for over 5 kilometres of filament in 2 years !
Just thought I'd update this and say the he3d K200 is STILL my best printer. Still running all stock firmware, electronics and mechanicals, still capable of running all day - every day.
Thought I had a serious issue tonight. Couple of small prints were under extruded !
You what ? that's bloody weird. Changed nozzel, current print back to it's normal impeccable self :-)
The 2 year old printbite is still as good as new.
This setup is how all 3d printing SHOULD be.
:-)
****
well sunavabeetch !
Turns out it's the new roll of silver filament that WAS the bloody. Looks, It's just gone and clogged my new nozzle !
This is the firast time I've ever had a filament that does this. The previous roll of this stuff was some of the best filament I've ever used.
Must be some big unmeltable particle is this roll.
well *&&&**^^%%$%^^&&*()**&&^%$£### and **&*())_~###(*&^%%^& as well !
Well I guess i just jinxed myself.
The ptfe tube was buggered, So drilled that out, fitted new one and managed to twist the end off the nozzle leaving the thread in the damn hotend !
So children, tonight's lesson is simple: ALWAYS heat the heatblock before screwing your nozzle in or out !
Right, where do i get replacement heat blocks............
Hmmm - the one on the ctc i3 looks remarkably similiar, I think we have a plan !
That said, think I'm out of 0.5mm nozzles, sheesh lol (well you got to laugh).
Alexa's (It and my niece were named long before amazon stole the name) back up and running.
And looking new and shiny.
So here's the thing.
I wanted a single heatblock.
ended up buying a pack with 4 heatblocks, 4 metal 'throats, bunch of 0.4mm nozzles for £10.
NObody just sells a single heatblock. And this pack was the cheapest I could find. Shame the metal throats don't fit alexas cooling block - but I've got plenty ptfe liner.
I guess at some point the extra bits will come in handy. not the same size heatblock (not quite a sdeep), but works just fine.
Nozzles - okay let's talk bloody ridiculous.
I could get a single 0.5mm nozzle from ebay for about £2.50 and a weeks delivey time. I wanted at least 2.
In the end I bought a mixed pack of 20 nozzles with next day delivery from amazon containing 2x0.5mm nozzles for £4.
Sheer insanity.
I'll probably play with the other sizes at some point. But how crazy is that pricing ? 20 for less than the price of 2 !
I know people don't like amazon. But where else can you order stuff at 22:30 and have it delivered the next day - on a saturday - before 13:00 and still pay less than ebay ?
The new nozzles are slightly narrower with a longer pointy end. Looks good and prints well.
Currently knocking out an alignment block for my new laser cutter.
After 5.5km of filament it looks like Alexa appreciates the new parts :-)