Calibration Suggestion

So what is everyone's preferred method of calibration?

I have been having horrible warping issues with ABS, as well as inconsistent layer thickness etc. I started out by doing the rough e-steps calibration by zennmasterM on youtube and moved on to the single layer thick wall fine calibration and that keeps failing miserably with inconsistent results every time. I think that is partly due to the needed temperature being off.

I live in a 100 year old house so it's fairly drafty and until i manage to get the front door fully sealed off there always going to be a minor draft. I've used Glue stick, and Hairspray but stayed away from acetone because it's in the house and children being able to be near is a very real possibility.

So suggestions for calibrating the machine in general? where should i start? there are so many things to cover and there is so much overlapping info some of it dated some of it not... i'm kinda lost in the information at this point.

I will say the bed is set, and stays set thanks to ABL, but beyond that i'm at a bit of a loss.

I'm strongly of the opinion that it is necessary to heat soak the extruder for 20 - 30 minutes before trying any calibration, or, in fact, before starting any print that has a large footprint on the heated bed.

I'll even throw into the ring the idea of turning off the extruder fan with ABS so it gets well and truly melted from edge to core.

OME

With a hexagon i dont think thats a good idea...

Ill do that tomorrow after work. Trying to get some actual precision readings done without little hands reaching...

It may just be the need to let the heat soak on the 12" build area... Only one way to find out... Test it... An ir temp gun might be in my future just so i dont second guess myself.

There's some delay to the hot end thermal loop, and going from no extrusion to a fast one takes some time for the adjustment. I discard the first calibration extrusion - since the thermal loop will be adjusting on that. Don't overdo the flow volume - no more than 50 or 75 mm/sec feed rate for 3mm filament, or 150 or 200 mm/sec for 1.75mm.

On printing, try letting the bed soak for 10 or 15 minutes before heating up the extruder. To rule out drafts or room temp being the issue, try printing with something like a sheet draped over the printer.

How does the thin wall print fail? What are you using for a brim? Try increasing it to something like 10 mm. Others may know otherwise, but I'd think the weaker layer adhesion with ABS could lead to issues printing the thin wall calibration item.

Ok so last night i printed about 4 test loops using the _40x10.stl that was suggested by the zejnmasterm video. It basically tests for consistency on extrusion width with the most common moves of long curves short curves and sharp angles.

So the whole thing is to the calipers to the uppermost layer or 3 depending on how good your eyes and hands are take those 4 numbers drop the largest take ths average and divide it by tye number its supposed to be that is located in your gcode.

That number is what you change your extrusion multiplier to and after running the test again your extrusion width should be dead on. But its not... The results were inconsistent. Zometimes th
He walls would be thicker than when the multiplier was 1... Somestimes a couple would be spot on and the others would be thicker this could also be due to the part possibly warping... And once the extrusion multiplier was reduced the layers would delaminate very easily.

As for the drafts i built an enclosure. Its not 100% sealed around the door ill stop on the way home from work and fix that tonight.

So as of right now. Let the printer bed heat soak before calibrTion and get the door sealed to stop all drafts.

Printing at 230 first layer then drop to 225

115 on the bed for first layer then drop to 110.

We'll see how it goes tonight.

Please excuse the typos im reduced to using my phone. My laptop hard drive died shortly after i booted it up this morning so im reduced to using my phone.

I was pretty new with the printer when I tried, but I also had little luck adjusting using the 40x10 print. One of the walls was always thinner than the others. IDK - maybe my nozzle has an oval opening instead of round. Now I just adjust e-steps by measuring the input feed, and adjust the slicer for the filament diameter and pretty much leave it at that.

Thats probably what im going to do aside from getting this warping issue under control which hopefully will be fixed with sealing the door the rest of the way off.